Very frustrated with opening/closing

FlowerPower · 12-30-2018, 04:29 PM

When I opened it the first time, I had problems, but finally managed. Definitely does not lift like the videos!

Closing is less of a problem, but one of the front clamp latches won't reach high enough to clip in.

Today I moved it to another location in my yard and couldn't get the front lifted at all. One side came up higher than the other, and there was a large rubbing noise. I tried to re-level it and wasn't strong enough to crank up the levelers more.

Do these have to be on flat concrete or gravel to open/close well easily? Or does it sound like the frame's out of whack?

bheisser · 12-30-2018, 08:17 PM

Make sure you level the trailer first, front to back and side to side , use a level. ...I believe it is the street side (THE side with the hookups) that is easier to close first.... take your time,,,level it out and it will go smooth

Shane826 · 12-30-2018, 08:39 PM

Also don’t use the stabilizer jacks to level. That puts a lot of twist on the frame and causes all sorts of issues. Use boards or some kind of leveled under the tire to level side to side then use the tongue jack to level front to back.

If it’s still tough to open you may need your torsionbars adjusted. Just remember the easier you make it to open, the harder it is to close. But here’s a cheat: Lower the front end, then open the front shell. Let gravity help you. Lock the front shell in place, then raise the front end up high and open the rear shell. It works.

BrucePerens · 12-31-2018, 12:26 AM

Some of us don't have a problem in using the stabilizer jacks to level. Indeed, I usually store my Trailmanor with the wheels lifted off of the ground. It may be differences in the Trailmanor model under discussion, etc.

tentcamper · 12-31-2018, 10:27 AM

I would get the trailer level side to side with blocks under the tires, then I would use the tongue jack to level front to back. Put the stab jacks down.

I agree don't try to level with the stab jacks. It's hard work by hand and my cordless drill will not rise the trailer more than an inch. If you want to rise it more after level. Put the tongue down and lower the rear stab jacks as much as you want then rise the tongue until level front to back.

**Bill** · 12-31-2018, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlowerPower

... one of the front clamp latches won't reach high enough to clip in.

Today I moved it to another location in my yard and couldn't get the front lifted at all. One side came up higher than the other, and there was a large rubbing noise.

As others have (kind of) stated, if the trailer is off-level side-to-side, the shells will shift a bit toward the low side, and then the high side will drag on the box as you try to move it up or down. This is probably the "large rubbing noise" you heard. In some cases, the shell may actually snag on something as it moves, making further movement impossible. As you can imagine, this usually happens when the high side is the utility-hookup side, since there are more things sticking out that can snag.

I've had this happen only a few times, but always, it seems, when I'm in a hurry to close. Rather than futzing with the jacks, I asked my wife to stand on the low side, and push the shell sideways as I closed. It really doesn't take much shell movement, or effort, to clear a snag.

Levelling front-to-back is a different issue. If the trailer is off-level front-to-back, the shells will be easier to move in one direction, and harder to move in the other. But scraping or snagging should not be a problem. Shane's "cheat" in post #3 works well - especially if you have an electric jack.

The position of the clamp latches is again different issue. Their position is adjustable.

Bill

FlowerPower · 01-01-2019, 01:42 PM

Thanks everyone! I'm going to haul it to a friend's flat driveway and try again. With all the above info, I should be able to figure out what's going on with it, or me, or a combination of both, and make the necessary adjustments.

BrucePerens · 01-01-2019, 02:03 PM

If you wish to adjust the torsion bars, there are 8 bolts under the trailer. It's a bit confusing which bolt is connected to what lifting arm and shell, be sure to look carefully. Maximum lift is when they are tighter. Adjust just a quarter turn at the time, and make sure the shell is still easy to close as well as lift. Adjust only with the shell raised, never with it lowered. If your trailer is lifted on the stabilizers, put jack stands or something else under the trailer to make sure it doesn't come down on you. Jack stands must only be used on the frame not the axle, the axle will bend if force is applied to it. Stabilizers can fail from sideways force and drop the trailer. Never use just two stabilizers, all 4 must put force on the ground or the trailer will tend to roll away from the two extended ones, destroying them.

FlowerPower · 01-06-2019, 03:46 PM

Got it leveled today in a friend's driveway and still had problems opening and closing. One side was harder than the other and was visually higher.

Something's still not quite right because its way too difficult overall to pull up and too hard to push down on the one side.

Going to call the local RV places tomorrow and see if anyone's worked on these before. I don't dare adjust the torsion bars myself given how nearly impossible it is for me to open/close it.

Shane826 · 01-06-2019, 03:58 PM

One side is higher as in left to right? You need to adjust the lift arms to level out the shells. Not as simple a job. I’m looking to tackle that in the spring when the TM comes out of hibernation.