Electric Water Heater Won't Turn On

Madoc67 · 10-08-2013, 07:14 PM

We just returned from our second camping trip in our "new to us" 3124KB. Overall, we had another great time in the Trailmanor with the only problem being the fact that I couldn't get the electric water heater to turn on.

It worked fine on our first camp-out in August and I am fairly certain that I didn't dry fire the element when we returned, so I'm not sure what the problem is. I checked the breaker (it was on), I turned it off and back on, but no luck. I also made sure that the on/off switch on the water heater was on, but no luck. I have looked under the sink to ensure that no wires were knocked loose when storing items and could find nothing obvious.

The gas fired option worked great and we were able to generate hot water, but I really like having the electric water heater as well.

Are there any other obvious things to check that could be wrong? If I have dry fired the element, is there an easy way to tell?

Thanks!

10-08-2013, 07:23 PM

We went camping last Saturday and I flipped on the elect water heater. Several hours later, still not even luke warm. The next morning the water was finally hot. I don't know how long you had it on before deciding it wasn't working...but if my experience is common, it can sometimes take forever

**Bill** · 10-08-2013, 08:08 PM

Actually, the electric heater is very fast. From a cold start to a full tank of hot water should be no more than 10 minutes. If it takes much longer, something is wrong. Are you sure you know where the electric switch is? It is outside the TM, not inside, indicated by the blue arrow in
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=447.

Do you (either of you) have access to a test meter, aka digital voltmeter or DVM? If so, and if you feel competent working with household electricity, disconnect shore power, disconnect the battery, and open the outside panel over the water heater.

First, make sure the water heater is full of water. Then take the black plastic cover off the connections to the water heater element (the cover is visible just to the right of the arrow in the picture above). You will see the two wires that power the element, one white and one black. Set the scale on the meter to AC volts (ACV), and something around 200. Press the two meter probes to the two screws, connect shore power, and turn on the switch to the water heater (it helps to have two people). The meter should read between 110 and 130 volts. If it does, the problem is in the heater; if it is zero, more or less, the problem is elsewhere.

Then, assuming the meter reads 120 or so, indicating that the heating element is getting power but not heating, disconnect shore power again. At the base of the heater element, disconnect either the white wire or the black wire, and pull it back out of the way. Set the meter on the resistance (ohms) scale, set to the lowest value (probably X1). Touch the probes to the two screws on the heater element, and check the meter. You are looking for a reading that is NOT infinite - but probably around 10. If the reading is very high, then the element is burned out and must be replaced (cheap and easy).

Bill

Madoc67 · 10-08-2013, 08:08 PM

I turned it on at 5:00pm Friday night and left it on all night and all of Saturday. I didn't detect any warmth in the water whatsoever. I used the gas option on Saturday night to heat some water up for my wife and then turned the gas off. I left the electric switch on overnight again. On Sunday, the water was cool again.

Madoc67 · 10-08-2013, 08:11 PM

Bill, thanks for the instructions. I have a digital voltmeter and I'll try your suggestions and report back what I find.

One quick question: Can I do this on 110V household shore power? Or do I need a 30 amp connection? I know one shouldn't use the AC on a 110V connection and I didn't know if the water heater was similar.

Thanks!

TM Pilot · 10-09-2013, 01:09 AM

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=11489

**Bill** · 10-09-2013, 12:09 PM

Good link, TMPilot. Thanks.

MacDoc, I forgot to include one preliminary and easy step. In the photo I linked, find the rectangular black plastic cover near the top of the unit. It has a white label on it, and you can see the word "Important". Although it is hard to see in the photo, there are two round spots on this cover, each about the size of a quarter. These are overheat reset switches. Simply push each one firmly with your thumb. If one of them clicks, you may have found (and fixed) the problem.

Bill

TM Pilot · 10-09-2013, 01:15 PM

Madoc67,

Connecting the TM to 120V household shore power should be fine to test the heating element. You don't need a 30 amp connection.

I had to replace the electric element in the water heater of my 07 TM 2619 a few weeks ago. I assume it was the original element. Before I changed it out I checked the two reset switches and that the element was getting 120V with the power switch on. The entire element was rusty and pitted. And it ohmed out to infinity. The new electric element showed 10 ohms and heated the water to full temp in about 10-15 minutes. As elements age and rust the amount of time to heat the water will increase until they fail completely.

Thanks, Bill, for the write-up and pictures about changing out the element. It made the job a lot easier.

Bruce

10-09-2013, 01:33 PM

There are two small ( about dime sized) round black discs above the heater switch. They are over temp pop switches. Turn the WH off, then push each one hard with your finger. If they have tripped, you will feel the disc snap. Turn the WH back on and see if ti works. These can occasionally trip and will keep the WH from working.

**Bill** · 10-10-2013, 10:23 AM

Welcome aboard, Bob!

Bill