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06-02-2009, 07:15 PM
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#1
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Guest
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Dumb Question
Hi,
Do you need to turn on warter pump if you have water connection at camping site?
Thanks.
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06-02-2009, 07:24 PM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Rules
Hi,
Do you need to turn on warter pump if you have water connection at camping site?
Thanks.
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No. Just hook up to the exterior 'city water' connection. You don't need the pump. The pump is used to pump water from the fresh water tank when 'dry camping' - aka ''boondocking'.
__________________
2002 TM 2619
2002 Ford F-150
The Camping Canines - Aubie (RIP 7/14/08), & Klondike, Zeke and Grace, Mocha
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06-02-2009, 07:48 PM
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#3
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Santa Cruz County, CA
Posts: 2,405
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You should also invest in a pressure regulator for your city water connection. Most places don't have high pressure, but some do, and it can cause your plumbing to spring leaks (not a good way to spend your vacation). It's better to be safe than sorry, and they aren't very expensive. We just leave ours hooked up to the end of our H20 hose.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...rs-gauges/4411
__________________
'97 2720 & '01 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4
2011 & 2017 Prii, 10'x18' & 10'x9' Tents
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06-02-2009, 08:28 PM
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#4
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Guest
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Install the pressure regulator on the TM end of the hose and not at the water spigot. You are much less likely to forget it when you pack up especially in inclement weather.
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06-02-2009, 10:46 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Rules
Hi,
Do you need to turn on water pump if you have water connection at camping site?
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And if you do, the TM manual says you may damage your pump.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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06-04-2009, 03:02 PM
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#6
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Guest
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I put the regulator at the spigot, not at the TM. The reason for this is that the hose itself can spring a leak if the pressure is too high. But I do admit I've been tempted with the permanently installed regulator idea...and if I did that I'd just risk the hose.
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06-04-2009, 06:57 PM
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#7
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,942
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I don't know about others but I've gone through a couple of regulators this year. I always keep a spare now. It seems like they only last a few camp-outs and they seem to get plugged up and stop working.
I've even lent my spare to others in our camping group who have had their pressure regulators fail.
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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06-04-2009, 08:06 PM
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#8
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito
And if you do, the TM manual says you may damage your pump.
Dave
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How would the pump be damaged?
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06-04-2009, 08:44 PM
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#9
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,279
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I'm not sure, exactly. I admit I have tested it for about a minute, and although my pump survived, it made disturbing noises. Definitely abnormal.
No part of the pump moves more than 1/8"....it is not a typical impeller design. If I understand correctly, during normal pump operation, there is a plastic plate that sits atop 3 adjacent chambers, and the plate rocks back and forth to create pumping action. Here's a diagram.
Obviously, the pump creates water pressure. Perhaps when there is back pressure into the pump outlet, the cumulative pressure created by the pump and the back pressure from the shore connection is enough to dislodge or rip the seal. I don't know, I'm just guessing.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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06-05-2009, 09:26 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,212
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As shown in this diagram and in the diagram Dave referenced, there is a one-way check valve at the output side of the pump. This prevents the city water source from trying to force water backward through the pump. A good idea. But ...
If city water is connected, the pressure closes the check valve. If you start the pump, then the pump is pumping against the closed valve. In other words, the water can't move. If this were an impeller pump, the impeller would simply spin in the pool of water in the pumping chamber, and no harm would be done. But this is a positive displacment pump. The motor goes around, and the wobble plate pushes against the rubber diaphragm, and the diaphragm has to move. But it can't move, because there is a solid column of water beyond it, and that water can't move. And water is incompressible. So the diaphragm has to move, but it can't move. Something has got to give. Either the motor stalls, since it can't push the diaphragm. Or the diaphragm rips. This is one disadvantage of a positive-displacement pump.
All of that assumes that the city water pressure is high enough to keep the valve closed. If city water pressure is lower, the pump may be able to force the valve open when the diaphragm is pushed. In that case, the pump will actually move water, and nothing will be hurt.
Did that make any sense?
Bill
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