suggestions for replacing converter, please

[JSShattuck]

I am no electrician, but think I need to replace the converter in my 2007 3124KS. Everything worked while camping last summer, but has stopped since being stored.
The battery does not remain charged up, even when plugged into shore power. At first I thought it could be the battery, so I replaced it.
The indicator lights are not all lit while connected to shore power. When the battery is depleted the interior lights do not work, even while connected to shore power.
So I was wondering what converter anyone recommends for replacement. I did not find a model # on the existing. I will try to post a couple pictures of what I have.
Thanks in advance for your help.

[Bill]

I don't recognize the particular converter - perhaps someone else does.

Before replacing, the problem sounds like of two simple things. First, is the converter getting AC power? One of the circuit breakers should be labelled "Converter". Flip that breaker OFF, then ON.

Second, there is probably a 12-volt output fuse somewhere within the converter. You need to find that fuse and check it.

Do you have the blue book that came with the TM? If so, the converter manuals will be in the book. Otherwise, you will need to identify the converter, and get the manual on line.

Bill

[JSShattuck]

Thanks for the reply. I have switched all the breakers off/on. I have a blue folder, I'll look in that for the converter info. I will also look for the 12V fuse.

[JSShattuck]

I think the 12V circuit breaker you refer to would be the Pollak 54-230P in line near the battery. That was the first thing I replaced.
I found the manual for the converter. It is WFCO Ultra WF-8935AN/WF-8945AN/WF-8955AN. I don't know how to determine if it's 35, 45 or 55. The manual does give trouble shooting information though.
To be continued....

[Bill]

The Pollack circuit breaker in the battery positive line is not original, but is a better-than-original installation done by a former owner. It replaced the original 30-amp main fuse, which was somewhat troublesome.

Bill

[Casey Freswick]

I know this thread is straying from the original post somewhat but I would recommend that anyone getting a new converter get one that can switch to a lithium battery. This upgrade is not much more and it will increase your options in the future.

[Bill]

Bill wrote

Second, there is probably a 12-volt output fuse somewhere within the converter. You need to find that fuse and check it.

The WFCO manual covers the 8935, 8945, and 8955 units, so there is no need to determine which one you have.

On page 2, there is mention of "reverse polarity fuses". They are protective devices - if you hook the converter up backward, even for a moment, these fuses will blow, protecting the converter. On page 6, you can see the location of these fuses - they are easy to check.

Some converters have a second fuse in the +12VDC output line, to protect against loads that are higher than the rating of the converter (35 amps, 45 amps, or 55 amps). I don't find mention of such a fuse in the manual - perhaps the WFCO does not have one.

The ultimate test, as described in detail on page 7, is to disconnect the battery, then power up the converter and confirm that it is providing 12VDC at its output.

Bill

[rickst29]

shared the 120v breaker (that's an input to the WFCO) with another 120v circuit, but there was nothing shared on output or split on output. The 12v output wire should have been wired directly to the WFCO circuit board (with 12v fuses), into one of the large "upstream lugs.

That circuit board is pretty reliable, and you can keep it. I do recommend, however, that you add another 120v circuit breaker, so that the "shared" 120v circuit connected by using the "hot" pigtail can have a breaker dedicated to that circuit, and a separate breaker dedicated to the new converter section.

You need only replace the Converter section, and not the 12-VDC circuit board. The original Converter section you have is identical to the one they installed OEM in my 2619 from very late within model year "2006". Mine blew up long ago. The new "replacement" WFCO units are somewhat better than the originals, but not as good as the USA-designed and USA-BUILT replacements from progressive dynamics. The PD units are much more costly. (And they are worth it, IMO.)

Buy from factory-authorized "bestconverter.com", although its owner will try to tell you that their own "Boondocker" replacements are just as good as PD. They're not (or definitely were not, when I bought and used one for a few years before upgrading a second time to PD).

[JSShattuck]

I replaced the converter with a new WFCO WF-8945-MBA. That solved my problem.