TM 2720 Fold-Up Shower Wall Switch

[live4fun]

I have been searching the posts for discussions on the black electrical switch which engages when the fold-up shower wall engages in the standing position. On my 2720 this switch activates the 12v ceiling lights for the bed, bath, oven and kitchen sink only. The front side 12v ceiling lights are always active if switched on. So here are my three questions.

1. What is the design purpose of shutting off 1/2 the ceiling lights (all on the backside only)?
2. Does this 12v switch deactivate any other devices that I am not aware off?
3. If I bypass this switch by removing it and making these light live, will I damage anything?

For me, a lot of times I have the shower walls down to do maintenance and such. It is a pain erecting the walls just to get these lights to go on. Or sometimes when doing a fastsetup and not needing the bathroom, those lights won't work? Any suggestions would be helpful.

[Bill]

I have never seen a black switch. Mine is a silver button that is depressed when the bathroom wall is erected. To the best of my knowledge, it turns off 12-volt power to the rear shell, so I am surprised that it would affect the oven and kitchen sink lights. You can find a wiring diagram in the TM manual in your blue binder, or in the TM Technical Library.

The switch is a safety device. As you ride down the road, the rear shell wiggles a little bit against the bed, and this motion can turn ON the switch in the light over the bed. I've experienced this. Since that light is pressed against the bedding, heat could build up and start a fire. I wouldn't disable this switch.

In addition to the over-bed light, the switch turns off the bathroom ceiling light and the gas detectors near the floor. You can hear them squeak when the power goes off.

Bill

[ThePair]

Originally Posted by live4fun

I have been searching the posts for discussions on the black electrical switch which engages when the fold-up shower wall engages in the standing position. On my 2720 this switch activates the 12v ceiling lights for the bed, bath, oven and kitchen sink only. The front side 12v ceiling lights are always active if switched on. So here are my three questions.

1. What is the design purpose of shutting off 1/2 the ceiling lights (all on the backside only)?
2. Does this 12v switch deactivate any other devices that I am not aware off?
3. If I bypass this switch by removing it and making these light live, will I damage anything?

For me, a lot of times I have the shower walls down to do maintenance and such. It is a pain erecting the walls just to get these lights to go on. Or sometimes when doing a fastsetup and not needing the bathroom, those lights won't work? Any suggestions would be helpful.

What Bill said. Safety issue.

Many have utilized a piece of angle iron or similar to depress the switch if they need light and the bathroom wall is down. Shouldn't be too difficult to fid something of the right size and shape to wedge in and just push. That would resolve the issue while keeping the safety.

[ArkyDoodle]

But don't the newer units use LED lighting thereby eliminating the heat/potential fire issue? Put a small (heavy) object on the switch when the bathroom walls are down.....

[Bill]

LEDs generate less heat than incandescents, for sure, but they do not generate zero heat. If you bundle them up in an insulting blanket, the heat build up will be slower, but over the course of a day's travel, I'm not sure I would want to trust the fixture to remain cool.

I don't know when (or if) TM started using LED lamps in this fixture. I also don't know what year TM the OP has.

The heavy weight on the switch is a good idea.

Bill

[live4fun]

Those are all good solutions and answers to the question. I am in the process of swapping out the CF fixtures with LEDs for lower energy and better brightness. Also I read the electrical diagrams to see that all the ceiling fixtureso on the back folding half are wired together thru this switch. It's too bad the stove and the kitchen sink lights are part of that of that circuit. I will look for a manual hold-down device for that switch (when the walls are down), but I appreciate all the helpful information about the overheat/safety issues. Thanks!