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04-07-2008, 04:13 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 54
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Thetford toilet dump valve repair
I think I have a problem with the Thetford toilet when emptying the tank. The last two times we have had the camper out I have not heard the 'whoosh' when I pull the lever at the base of the toilet. Nothing happens!
However, when I pull the valve outside the camper to dump into the sewer connection the tank empties!.
I am of the opinion the lever inside the camper does nothing when I pull it....in other words 'it ain't working'. When I go to charge the toilet I believe the chemical I use along with the water to charge it goes all the way to the outside valve, which explains why it takes an abnormally long time to fill the tank to the green charge position.
My question is two fold. Do you think I am correct in my assesment of the problem?
How would one go about repairing the broken lever in the Thetford, short of taking it to the dealer? Are they difficult to take loose and inspect for internal damage? Has anyone done this before? How difficult a task is it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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04-07-2008, 05:11 PM
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#2
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,279
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Interestingly, I too increasingly no longer hear the whoosh after I pull the lever at the base of the toilet, either. And when I open the cap that covers the fitting to which the sewer hose attaches, there is about a tablespoon of the blue stuff (but nothing else), which means it is leaking from the toilet. But why it's not mixed with waste, I don't know.
Here is a exploded view of the toilet:
http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/P...1/Default.aspx
I took off part #9 to replace #10 and #13, and it was pretty straight forward. Just wear gloves, and open the window. The valve though actually seems to be beneath the body of the toilet, so that presumably means the toilet has to come out. Ugh.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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04-07-2008, 06:01 PM
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#3
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: MD
Posts: 412
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link to Bill's toilet repair documentation
__________________
Tim
2004 2720SL TrailManor, 2 X T105, Trimetric 2030RV, TST TPMS
2003 Tundra Access V8 2X4 w/Tow Pkg
Equal-i-zer 1000, Prodigy, McKesh, UnderCover
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04-07-2008, 06:24 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,216
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JimWilly -
When you pull the handle, does it feel like it is pulling something, or does it just flop around loose? From your description, I'm thinking it is pulling "something", and is not simply disconnected.
For both you and Dave, the problem is that the gasket on the Slide-EZ valve has torn or folded or crumpled. This is a soft rubber gasket (foam maybe)? that seals the outlet of the tank. When it leaks, the liquid in the toilet slowly drains down into the sewer pipe below. Hence no "whoosh" when you pull the valve, and the presence of the blue stuff when you take off the sewer cap.
You need to replace the gaskets. The repair instructions linked above will tell you how to do it. You can buy either a kit of new gaskets, or an entirely new Slide-EZ valve, complete with new valves. I was unable to find either at any of several RV stores or parts departments, so you'll probably have to get them directly from Thetford. You can find the part numbers in the last post at
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=5890
And you're right, Dave, you can't get at it by disassembling any of the upper works. Take the whole toilet out as a unit.
While you are at it, you will want to replace the big foam donut gasket called the floor flange gasket, which Thetford carries as part number 24304. This part is usually available at RV supply houses, but the others (in my experience) are not.
Enjoy the process!
Bill
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04-07-2008, 06:36 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,279
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Sigh. Before I read this thread a little while ago, I was in oblivion thinking I didn't have a problem. Now I have to look forward to pulling the toilet. Ugh. And Bill -- from your last post in the thread you referenced, it sounds like I have to pull the toilet first before I can order parts, right? I presume Thetford isn't going to know ahead of time according to year of manufacture perhaps.
Thanks so much for pointing out that we have a problem. I'd much prefer to learn about it now vs. when we're camping and waste starts leaking out onto the floor.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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04-07-2008, 07:01 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,216
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Dave -
I edited my post, probably after you looked at it, to say that the plastic Slide-EZ was used after 1978, and the steel was used earlier. So unless you have a REALLY OLD Thetford, I'd say you are good to go for the plastic.
Bill
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04-07-2008, 11:34 PM
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#7
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Guest
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I'm in the same boat and haven't done anything about it. Mine slowly leaks into the pipe and the Thetford valve doesn't shut reassuringly. Bummer, 'cause I had it apart to replace the skirt recently. I'll bet the mounting bolts are inside that tank in order to pull it.
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04-08-2008, 12:44 AM
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#8
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,279
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Thanks, Bill. I called a place up in Sacramento, and they had the Slide-EZ valve for ~$46. Just called them because they were the first dealer in CA to come up in Google, so tomorrow I'll check to see if a local place has them. What I think will be a little more challenging is the locator discs (or whatever they're called). I've been able to shift the toilet around ever since I bought the TM, so I am guessing that is what caused this problem to begin with. I can't even find a part number for those, so I may have to get the stuff from Thetford anyway....that just means I have to wait a week for the stuff, while I have the TM uncovered and setup at the moment since we just got back from a trip.
Lars - I don't think you actually have to open the toilet to remove it. I replaced the skirt also, so I know what you're talking about. Through Bill's instructions and instructions on Therford's website, the whole thing comes off pretty much in one piece.
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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04-08-2008, 06:11 PM
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#9
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimwilly
I think I have a problem with the Thetford toilet when emptying the tank. The last two times we have had the camper out I have not heard the 'whoosh' when I pull the lever at the base of the toilet. Nothing happens!
However, when I pull the valve outside the camper to dump into the sewer connection the tank empties!.
I am of the opinion the lever inside the camper does nothing when I pull it....in other words 'it ain't working'. When I go to charge the toilet I believe the chemical I use along with the water to charge it goes all the way to the outside valve, which explains why it takes an abnormally long time to fill the tank to the green charge position.
My question is two fold. Do you think I am correct in my assesment of the problem?
How would one go about repairing the broken lever in the Thetford, short of taking it to the dealer? Are they difficult to take loose and inspect for internal damage? Has anyone done this before? How difficult a task is it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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I had the exact same problem.
If you don't hear that 'swoosh' noise when you pull the T valve it probably means that the EZ Slide valve is remaining open (even slightly) when the T valve is in the closed position. The effect of the valve not closing completely is that the water/chemical mix gets past the EZ Slide valve and starts filling the black PVC pipe. The slide valve at the outlet is really the only thing holding back the contents of the toilet. If you've noticed that it seems to take longer to charge the toilet, this is the reason - you're filling some of the black pipe as well as the toilet.
In discussing the situation with the factory, I learned that sometimes a gasket in the EZ Slide valve gets curled and does not allow the valve to close completely. When I finally got the toilet out (the mounts were installed backwards, but that's another story) and the valve removed, I saw that the gasket was indeed curled and would not allow a complete seal. I had ordered a replacement set of gaskets from Thetford, and replaced the bad gasket. It's worked fine ever since, and I'm hearing the 'swoosh' noise again.
Nick
__________________
2002 TM 2619
2002 Ford F-150
The Camping Canines - Aubie (RIP 7/14/08), & Klondike, Zeke and Grace, Mocha
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04-09-2008, 09:54 AM
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#10
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Guest
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I don't know who has the voodoo doll of me, but just letting you know that it is working.
After using my camper this weekend, I also didn't hear the "whoosh" when I pulled the inside handle to dump the toilet. I didn't really think anything about it at that time, and dumped from the outside as I normally do.
After I read this forum, I went back to check my toilet and even with the e-z slide handle pushed in, the water runs out as fast as I add it, if I leave the outside valve open. It's not a slow leak on mine, but goes out quickly. It still feels like the e-z slide handle is attached to something, and not just pulled loose, leaving the valve open.
Are there any suggestions, or does it look like I am going to be pulling a toilet out this weekend.
Thanks
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