What kind of anti sway bars ?

[Stephene1219]

I got my Andersen WDH today and sure enough I will need the extra plates as well. I went ahead and attached the two plates and the tension plate on the drivers side. I tightened to 90lbs and the frame did not seem to mind at all. When I order the other two plates tomorrow, I will ask if it is fine to put a self tapping bolt through the same set screw holes and into the frame.. This should keep them from sliding forward. On the door side where is the bracket for the swing away hitch. I checked clearance for the brackets and brackets just clear where it attaches to the frame. The break away cables will be able to be reattached into the same holes after the WDH install. I absolutely hate the break away cables that came with the TM. They are so hard to work with and attach. Mark, thanks so much for the help. I also checked the axel today and everything seems good.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by Stephene1219

I got my Andersen WDH today and sure enough I will need the extra plates as well. I went ahead and attached the two plates and the tension plate on the drivers side. I tightened to 90lbs and the frame did not seem to mind at all. When I order the other two plates tomorrow, I will ask if it is fine to put a self tapping bolt through the same set screw holes and into the frame.. This should keep them from sliding forward. On the door side where is the bracket for the swing away hitch. I checked clearance for the brackets and brackets just clear where it attaches to the frame. The break away cables will be able to be reattached into the same holes after the WDH install. I absolutely hate the break away cables that came with the TM. They are so hard to work with and attach. Mark, thanks so much for the help. I also checked the axel today and everything seems good.

I put my chains on the second link and avoided having to go with 2 plates.

The set screw is really a "Pivot point". All of the load is transferred from the chain to the lower end of the frame mounting plates. This forces the lower end forward until the lower mounting bolt contacts the bottom of the frame and the upper mounting bolt contacts the top of the frame. The best solution is to have the bar welded to the frame. You would only need a few inches on the lower part of the bar to keep the bar from sliding forward. On my trailer, that bar is stopped by the hinge bracket in the picture..... problem solved. On the passenger's side I had to loose everything up, slide the bar back in the correct position with the upper bolt hard against the frame and the lower bolt pivoted forward until it was hard against the frame and I put a self tapping screw in the lower part of the frame, to stop the bar from sliding forward.