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10-06-2012, 05:51 PM
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#1
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Guest
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Top corner edge trim repair
Backing our 05 2720 into a new winter storage location, snagged and partially pulled off the trim piece on one top corner edge. It looks like the only thing holding this piece on was silicone and or glue; there is a large gob of what looks to be clear silicone on the shell right about where it rolls from the vertical to the horizontal. Any suggestions on best to repair this? My first inclination is some type of silicone, then recaulk the edges with silicone seal. My other concerns are how to clamp the piece until whatever I use is set, and what will work best in cool weather - the high here (northern LP of Michigan) today was 43, and the forecast isn't for much warmer in the near future.
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10-06-2012, 05:58 PM
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#2
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Guest
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Only help I can offer is on the "clamping" method. Several long pieces of wide masking tape should hold it in place until whatever type of adhesive you use drys.
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10-06-2012, 07:41 PM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: EAST TENNESSEE
Posts: 699
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crazy as this may sound,
but a few nylon ratchet straps end to end around the tm to hold trim in place till glue dryes,or (till the spring thaw)
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RANDY & VICKIE
2003 3124 KS
TV 02 AVALANCHE 2500 4X4 8.1L
W/ PRODIGY B.C.,MAXXIS 10 PLY,HONDA 3000I
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(88) TM 25 KING, (91) TM 23,(98) 3023, (03) 3124KS
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10-07-2012, 11:21 AM
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#4
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Guest
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I bet it is silicone caulk used to glue it down. I take a tube on every trip just in case ya know.
Good luck
Bob
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10-07-2012, 05:18 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,199
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Kije -
I had the "opportunity" to do the same thing recently. Took me a couple tries to get satisfied with the result. I used a generous amount of clear 100% silicone caulk (RTV) to glue it in place, but learned not to allow any of the silicone to squeeze out from under the piece. Then, when it has set and I could remove the clamps, I caulked it normally with white caulk.
Incidentally, duct tape did NOT work well to hold the piece in place. Be sure to clean out the old caulk really well before proceeding.
Bill
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10-08-2012, 04:39 PM
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#6
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
...Incidentally, duct tape did NOT work well to hold the piece in place. ...
Bill
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Did the tape stretch or did the tape adhesive give out?
I've had great results using regular masking tape (not the blue or green painters stuff) on various types of glueing repairs.
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10-08-2012, 05:44 PM
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#7
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Guest
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Thanks for the suggestions, RTV and ratchet straps to clamp sounds like the way to go. After doing some online research on RTV, curing temperature doesn't look like it will be a concern. As always, the forum is great source of useful info.
thanks
tim
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10-09-2012, 07:21 PM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rio Dan
Did the tape stretch or did the tape adhesive give out? I've had great results using regular masking tape (not the blue or green painters stuff) on various types of glueing repairs.
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Good question, Dan. For me, the adhesive was the problem. It got goopy, and then the body of the tape slid sideways on that goopy base, under the pressure of holding the piece in place. Masking tape (a bit more "crispy") might have been better.
Bill
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10-10-2012, 02:24 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 71
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I had a loose section of molding on the front, curbside corner of the front shell. The dealer said to squirt caulk under it and then use duct tape to hold it down in position while it dried overnight, then to calk the seams where the piece touches the shell body. I did this and it worked perfectly.
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