Shell adjustment / alignment problems

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-26-2009, 12:47 PM

Ever since we've had our TM, the front shell has always sagged a bit at the front and has been more difficult to open compared to the rear shell. The rear shell opens almost effortlessly; the front shell requires a fair amount of strength.

First let me say that I would have preferred to pay someone $100 to fix both problems. I figure it would take someone who knows what they are doing less than an hour to fix both problems. So I took it to my local dealer, and they were clueless. "We don't mess with the shells" was their response. Uhh, ok. Whatever.

I messed around with the adjustment bolts underneath for the front shell, but no matter what I did, nothing seemed to make a difference. That is odd.

So a few weeks ago, I loosened up the 4 bolts on both front lift arms of the front shell, and pulled the torsion bar out a bit from the lift arm. This raised the front of the front shell to the point where it almost eliminated the sag.

When I closed the shell, the catches for the white latches at the front of the shell moved....I would expect that, but what I didn't expect is that they moved FORWARD! By pulling the torsion bar out of the lift arm a bit, I would have expected that they moved backwards. But they didn't, which is very perplexing. The only think I can think of is that the front and rear of the front shell were binding against each other, which could perhaps explain the difficulty in opening and the lack of any difference when adjusting the bolts.

So perhaps by raising the front, I removed what was stopping the rear from pushing the shell forward. That would indicate that the rear is too low. The contact point between the two shells at the roof when open could perhaps use a bit more space, but when closed, there is about a 1/4" or so gap on the roof between the front and rear shells. But if I raise the rear, the front will sag again, but perhaps I just need to raise it more.

So I am perplexed.

Any suggestions?

Dave

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-26-2009, 01:00 PM

BTW, I think the front of the front shell is now where is should be because the ~6" swing-out aluminum stabilizing arms that brace the lower part of the trailer to the shell now are at a 90 degree angle when fully swung out. Before, they would not swing out far enough to fully seat the pin in the shell.

I just looked on the inside of the front shell where I had wear marks on the ceiling from the seal on the rear shell, and it seems I already have started to wear in a new spot. But while the catches for the white corner latches on the outside only moved forward about 1/2", the new wear spot is probably 4-5" behind the old one!

ARGH! This is driving me crazy.

Dave

**wbmiller3** · 03-26-2009, 04:33 PM

I'm trying to visualize this so I can think about the geometry, but I don't know what you mean by this:

"pulled the torsion bar out a bit from the lift arm"

I can't see why that would make the front go up, unless we are using the word "out" differently from each other. Do you mean you pulled up on the shell so the distance between the bottom of the top shell and the point where the torsion bars go under the trailer is greater?

If that is what you did, I would expect the latches to move forward.

Also, I am pretty sure there are 2 sets of seals at the top shell/ bottom shell interface. You are probably seeing a wear mark from the 2nd set of seals. 4-5" is about how far apart they are IFRC. Maybe your front shell was tilted so much the aft set of seals did not touch enough to rub.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 03-26-2009, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbmiller3

Do you mean you pulled up on the shell so the distance between the bottom of the top shell and the point where the torsion bars go under the trailer is greater?

Yes, that is exactly what I did.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbmiller3

If that is what you did, I would expect the latches to move forward.

Why? I guess that's what I don't understand. Would you also expect the back of the front shell in the closed position to go up vs. what is was before the adjustment?

Thanks,
Dave

**wbmiller3** · 03-26-2009, 05:00 PM

Oops, you said "Catches" and I was thinking "Latches".

I see what you mean. You basically made the front lift arms longer. I agree, it would seem that this would move the shell towards the rear bumper when the shell is down, and therefore move the catch aft. Since the rear lift arms didn't change, I would also think this would tilt the front of the shell upwards.

So I'm now as confused as you are - sorry.

I am surprised you can change the length of the lift arm and have the catches/latches mate at all. I would think if the length of the lift arm wasn't very close to the distance between the "pocket stops" and the catches, the latches would not engage the catches.

03-26-2009, 06:05 PM

Dave

I agree with you if you extended the lift arms that tilt back and down, it should move the front shell back some in the closed position. While you are at it. I noticed that if the front is closed a little unevenly, the end of the bolts that hold the lift arms to the torsion bars can scrape the paint on the rear arms. A piece of 1 1/2" fire hose slit and wrapped around that area prevents this. The hose is held on with zip ties.

Speckul8r · 04-20-2009, 08:34 AM

I had a similar problem but different. My door sections have always lined up 100% but getting the camper ready for our last trip the top door section overlapped the bottom by a good 1/4". As though the top had "slipped" down a tad. I checked and releveled thinking that might be the problem but no go. After an hour scratching my head, I deceided that the forward Starboard side lift arm must have slipped so I proceeded to lift it up. Wth the shells in the up possition, I put a hydralic jack under the arm so it wouldn't slip farther down when I loosened the 4 bolts. Then I tried to loosen the bolts. Tried being the opperative word. Great God they were tight!!!!!!! Impact wrench on the highest setting finally loosened 'em up. (These bolts have 3 knocks in the head indicating they are pretty hard steel.) Raised the jack a bit and check the door. Things are looking better. Wound up raising the arm about a 1/2" and now things are realignied dandy. Retightened bolts. All clips and latches align as b4.
Why or how could this lift arm slip is beyond me. As tight as it was, it should never have budged.
Maybe my fix was not correct and I missed the real problem. I sure would like to hear from someone who knows.

HIKERZ · 04-13-2011, 09:50 AM

I need to adjust the front shell of a 2720 I have read some of the postings and I have located the bolts underneath. I need to tighten up the bolts to make opening a little easier. What is a good point to start in doing the initial adjustment 45 degrees 90 degrees etc. I could experiment but thought I might be able to lazy out and ask thanks