Suburban 6 Gallon Water Heater SW6DE maintenance.

[snapfish]

Hello

I bought my 2011 TrailManor used.
A few months later, I was reading the manuals that came with the trailer and it said that my Suburban 6 Gallon Water Heater SW6DE Operates on Lp Gas and 1440 Watt 110VAC. It also says the electric switch is right on the water heater. So I took a look and the little rocker switch is there and was in the “ON” position.

Very excited with my new discovery (LOL), I turned off the switch to the gas water heater. Next day, the water was cold as ice.
I started to troubleshoot, just to find that the electric reset switch did not work. I checked for electric current, and found readings to be normal as per the troubleshooting manual.
This started to drive me nuts. So I decided to remove the electrical heating element, and inspect behind the thermostat and manual reset switch buttons (Also I removed the rubber cover.)
Sure enough, I found one fuse wire burned and was not completing the electrical reset circuit. (see attached pics).
In addition, I found the heating element completely fried. It was very corroded (possibly the cause of the funny water taste)
I removed the water heater Anode rod and it looked like it is about 50% eroded.

The removal and re-install of the new parts are very easy and can be done in less than 30 minutes once you have the right parts on hand.

Here are the replacement parts numbers:
Suburban Screw In Electric Element 1440W = 520789
Suburban Water Heater Anode Rod Aluminum = 232768
Both you can find on ebay and Amazon for cheap. (Heating element can be found at Lowe’s and Home depot too for around $7-$9.)

Here is how to replace the parts:
You will need a 1-1/2" socket to change the heating element out. It needs a 1.5 inch socket which I bought at Lowes for $9. Don't buy a deep well socket because (based on your heater) it might no clear the gas plenum.

1- Disconnect the battery (negative side), and turnoff the gas/ propane, and water to the trailer, and turn off the electric on/off switch at the water heater tank.
2- Remove the two wire screws on top of the heater element. Push the two wires to the side.
3- Using the 1.5 socket, remove the heater element and let the water drain.
4- Using the 1.5 socket, remove the heater Anode rod.
NOW, It may be a good time to clean and flush the tank with a garden hose to remove any sediments or junk that may lay on the bottom of the water heater.
5- Screw in the new Anode rod.
6- Screw in the new heating element. Hook up the wires and put any covers back on.
7- Turn the water on to the tank.
8- Open all faucets inside the Trailer and let the air come out until no more bubbles in water, and water heater tank is now full with water.
9- Turn the electricity back on.
10- Turn on the electric switch at the water heater tank.
11- Wait 15 minutes or so and turn on the hot water faucets (you should get hot water.)
12- Turn off the electric switch, let some hot water out of the faucets and cold water into the tank.
13-Turn on the Gas/ Propane and test as well (as in step# 11.)


Thanks

[rvcycleguy]

Something to keep in mind Snapfish with the electrical switch in the ON position is that when you plug in the RV power cord, it immediately energizes the WH element. If the WH tank does not have water in it, it fries the heating element within seconds. That may have been the PO issue and why you found it in that condition. The routine for most owners here is to attach the water hose and run both sides (cold & hot) at the sink faucet before plugging in the power cord.

[snapfish]

The routine for most owners here is to attach the water hose and run both sides (cold & hot) at the sink faucet before plugging in the power cord.

rvcycleguy- I think that is the best advice, and best method to insure that the water heater tank is full of water before running the water heater (that being Gas or electric.)

Thank you very much for the excellent tip