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Old 08-30-2023, 08:41 AM   #31
Shane826
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What electric jack were you looking at that’s too tall? I have electric jacks on my 2007 3326 (think KS) and 2000 2720SL, both have front slide-outs.
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Old 09-01-2023, 11:46 AM   #32
rickst29
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Default I should have gone with an electric model.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane826 View Post
What electric jack were you looking at that’s too tall? I have electric jacks on my 2007 3326 (think KS) and 2000 2720SL, both have front slide-outs.
I finally had a chance to pull the older 2619 out from the garage, lifting the shells. Clearance between the top of the A-frame tongue jack mounting plate and the bottom of the slide-out bed pan is over 34" , FAR HIGHER than I had guessed. All of the power jacks which other TM owners have installed would have "fit" with plenty of room to spare.

Turning then handle, on my particular model of hand-cranked manual jack, is also more difficult than I expected: I had hoped to enjoy very easy "spinning" o of the handle when it the base is still within open air (while carrying zero load).

Instead, it is a moderately difficult push in either direction, and each handle rotation corresponds to only a tiny change in total height. This jack rises and drops very slowly.

If it had been easier to turn the handle (while the base is unloaded), AND if the non-handle end of the internal cylinder had included a terminating hex bolt head, I could have maybe used used a drill with a socket to spin it more quickly through the range of travel with zero loading. But the jack's main drive cylinder ends with only a short round overhang, not a hex bolt head.
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Old 09-01-2023, 03:06 PM   #33
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2 to 2-1/4 isn't much, id be going to the garage, digging out my die grinder and carbide burr bits and hose from my compressor, and within 5-10 minutes the 2" hole will be 2-1/4" it's only 1/8" all the way around.
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Old 09-01-2023, 03:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post
Turning then handle, on my particular model of hand-cranked manual jack, is also more difficult than I expected: I had hoped to enjoy very easy "spinning" o of the handle when it the base is still within open air (while carrying zero load)...Instead, it is a moderately difficult push in either direction.
On mine, there is a black plastic cap on the top of the tube. It is just above the crank handle. If removed, it exposes the bevel gear which rotates the threaded vertical shaft. I cleaned and greased the bevel gear, and it made a world of difference. A big glob of grease!

It might help even more if you could extract the vertical shaft - or least find some way to get at it and clean it. I'm not sure how to do this. With the jack all the way up, the traveller block might be within reach.

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Old 09-01-2023, 08:59 PM   #35
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The PO added a 2nd tongue jack on my TM, the original one is still in the "v" of the tongue and there's a 2nd one on the passenger side as well.
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Old 09-03-2023, 08:24 PM   #36
mickmanor
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Default Followup on trailer valet and Dewalt drill method -

I posted about my replacement of the original atwood jack with a trailer valet jack
and using a Dewalt 12v drill, a couple of years ago. I can't see that post anymore.

Anyway, that replacement method has worked flawlessly for me, and I recommend it.
I make sure to use a heavy duty battery and keep the jack greased. The battery has
never run low on power through a camping trip, so I can recommend the method.
I also hold the drill with 2 hands to raise/lower the 2720.
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Old 09-04-2023, 05:52 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmanor View Post
I posted about my replacement of the original atwood jack with a trailer valet jack
and using a Dewalt 12v drill, a couple of years ago. I can't see that post anymore.
A quick search on "Dewalt" turns it up here.

https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ghlight=dewalt

The Search tool is your friend.

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