Replacing A/C power cord with twist lock connector

[MikeD]

We picked up our Trailer (a 2004 2720) in November. We love the trailer, but the new power cord arrangement really bugs me. My understanding is that along with the bumper redesign, TM moved the power cord so that the trailer could be powered when closed ;D. In order to accomplish this, they placed 25 foot of heavy duty A/C cable in the corner of the bumper (streetside) and an access point on the bumper's streetside. Since the power cord is very thick, it's almost impossible to pull the cord out through the provided hole and a real pain to pull it out from the compartment in the bumper :'(.

After fighting with this twice, I decided to install a MARINCO 30 Amp Park Power Kit http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstor...E023CBC7A9C5F8. This would get the cord out of the bumper, and let me store it in the back tool compartment where it can easily be accessed and deployed (when the trailer is open, otherwise you need to keep the cable out). The project was fairly straightforward and it works just fine with the trailer either opened or closed.

WARNING: this involves cutting and rewiring the A/C power to the trailer. Although it was a fairly simple project, if you are not comfortable with A/C electrical wiring, this might not be a project for you.

Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures of the trailer before I did the modification, but perhaps the ones I got afterwards can give you an idea of the work involved. Here is the compartment in the rear bumper where the 25 feet of cord was orginally stored (after the installation I only left about 3 feet of cord).
.

After removing the original cable hatch (which looked liked http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newstor...E023CBC7A9C5F8), and cutting the A/C cable, it's a matter of following the enclosed wiring instructions, drilling 3 holes, and installing the new connector (the kit provides the necessary gaskets).
.

You can then use the remainder of the original cable and install a new connector on the end. This allows you to connect to the trailer and plug into shore power. This works when the trailer is closed and open.



Finally, I am able to store the new cable in the tool compartment (my batteries are mounted on the tongue, so I have the entire compartment for storage).
.

I've been really happy with this mod. It makes hooking up the electrical relatively painless.

Mike

Wow! What a cool modification. I've got an 01, model 2619 with the old style connection.

We've tossed around quite a few idea's for modifications to allowing what you have done on older model TM's.

I can see a way to apply your set up to my rig now, which would make AC power management a whole lot easier when closed.

Thanks for the suggestion. Nice pic's too!

Gregg

[Joe]

I did the same thing a couple of years ago except that I mounted the socket in the 'floor'. It was relatively easy. First I removed the converter so I could see the area. Then I drilled a 1/4" pilot hole to be sure I wasn't going to drill in the wrong place. Then I used a hole saw, about 3", to drill through the floor. I cut the power cord so that the 'pigtail' from the converter would go through the hole with enough to spare that I could make connections to the socket. Then I put the new plug on the power cord. Be careful to follow the wiring color code. Now we can get the trailer 'ready to roll' in the evening even to the point of hitching to the tv. However, don't forget to unplug the power cable before you drive away.

That's a very neat installation, Mike! I've been thinking about a way to install an easily accessed, waterproof outlet on my 1999 3124KS, one that also will eliminate having a dirty power cord flopping around in the interior's battery compartment when it's stored. Now if I can only figure out a good way to run the wiring from its present location to the rear of my TM.

A Google search enabled me to find a detailed description and photos of how the owners of "Natasha's Camping Site" installed their 30 amp. Marinco outlet in their popup trailer. This link is:

http://www.title-3.com/DetachPower.htm

[MikeD]

Larry,

That's a great site that you found ! Their installation instructions parallel mine with the following exceptions.

1. I cut the orginal cable rather than unhooking it from the converter and substituting another cable. Unhooking the orginal cable looked liked too much of a pain.

2. The "mousehole" that the factory installs is rotated 90 degrees from that shown in the picture. In order to orient the new plug correctly, I had to drill three new holes.

Mike

Mike,

Besides giving us a good idea regarding our electrical hookup, you've also made at least me very envious that your storage area is so neat and clean. If only mine looked that way, but I may try to install a shelf to give the storage area more organization.

Once again, shamed into doing what needs to be done....

[MikeD]

I'm real happy with the shelves. I got them at Walmart (pretty cheap plastic shelves). They fit almost perfectly, and I could easily assemble them in the storage area (otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get the assembled shelf through the door). I covered the top of the shelves with kitchen non-slip liner held down by double-stick tape. It works great to keep the contents from shifting around during travel. I also velcroed one of those one touch battery operated moon lights to the inside of the door. It gives me a work light when I'm accessing things at night.


Mike

Mike, I just read your post about installing the power plug in the floor of the TM. This is a fantastic idea for TMs without the new style bumper. In drilling thru the floor, did you go from the top (inside TM) or from up under the floor in order to ensure you would not hit the frame or something else important? Also, what did you do with the old mouse hole? What I would like to do is have two receptacles available, one under the TM for getting the fridge ready while closed, and another in the mouse hole for regular use. Would probably use two pieces of romax off the converter to the plugs. Lastly, how do you keep the receptable door closed under the TM since it's mounted upside down?

Wade

[MikeD]

Wade,

In drilling thru the floor, did you go from the top (inside TM) or from up under the floor in order to ensure you would not hit the frame or something else important?

On my 2004, TM had already put the mousehole on the side of the bumper and not the bottom, and routed the power cord into the bumper. All I had to do was remove the mousehole, and drill three small screw hole from the outside to allow me to attach the twist lock connector. The mousehole was fit into the hole drilled by TM into side of the bumper and this hole was the perfect size for the Twistlock.

Also, what did you do with the old mouse hole? What I would like to do is have two receptacles available, one under the TM for getting the fridge ready while closed, and another in the mouse hole for regular use. Would probably use two pieces of romax off the converter to the plugs.

I just tossed the old mousehole. It turns out that the hole is positioned perfectly for use with my TM is closed. This is one of the things I really like about this. Before a trip, I load up the TM, turn on the fridge, take out the power cord, and close everything up. I am then able to plug the TM into shore power and run the fridge on 12v through the converter the night before we take off.

Lastly, how do you keep the receptable door closed under the TM since it's mounted upside down?

Mine is mounted on the side of the bumper, so the outside door just flips down and clicks shut. I haven't had any problem with it popping open.

I hope this helped -- Mike

Sorry about my somewhat confusing post, but thanks for responding anyway. It was actually intended for Joe, who apparently mounted his power receptacle under the floor. My goof :-[.

Wade