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Old 07-22-2007, 10:32 PM   #1
Bendy3
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Default Water leak at fresh water opening - HELP

We took our 2007 TM 2619 out for the first time this weekend and need some advice.

I was testing most of the systems to ensure that they worked and ran across the following plumbing issue.

1) I had the fresh water tank full with the water pump in the OFF position.

2) I connected the city water to the campsites water faucet and have a copper 40 - 50 psi regulator inline at the connection.

3) I ran the air out of the lines by running the kitchen, bathroom sink and tub.

PROBLEM:

I had a considerable amount of water leaking from the fresh water fill connection (The one directly above the city water connection on the outside of the TM) although I was not using the fresh water/water pump system. I would unscrew the plastic fill cap and water would gush out at a good rate until the pressure normalized and the water level dropped below the fill line level. I would screw the cap back on and within minutes the same event would occur.

ATTEMPTS TO FIX:

I have ensured that the vent/overflow line on the fresh water tank is unkinked and working correctly. I have tried my home water line with the same regulator in place.

The problem still persists.

The amount of water leaking was enough to warrant us turning off the water at night so as to not completely saturate our campsite and the neighboring campsite.

IDEAS?

One last note:

I read the shurflo water pump technical sheet and it has a diagram of a "typical water system" which shows both the city water and potable holding tank systems together. I notice that on the potable tank system there is a shut off/drain valve prior to the intake of the water pump.

I do not have a cutoff present in the plumbing system of my TM...

Should I and Do you?

I figure a cutoff valve would stop the city water pressure from entering the potable water tank and avoid the problem but I don't want to cut into the line (the connection between the fresh water tank and water pump is flex line NOT pex) if it is going to damage the plumbing system in any way...

Thanks!!!
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Old 07-23-2007, 01:48 AM   #2
Freedom
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It sounds to me like the check valve on the pump is allowing city water to go back through the pump into the potable water tank. There should be a check valve in the outlet of the pump and it is either defective or stuck open. I'd pull the pump and check it out - they're really not complicated and they are repairable.
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Old 07-23-2007, 05:49 AM   #3
commodor47
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Try turning the water pump on and off a few times. Open the kitchen sink faucets (cold and hot) and let the pump run at full capacity for a short time. Do that a few times to see if the check valve resets itself.
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:01 AM   #4
Bendy3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freedom View Post
It sounds to me like the check valve on the pump is allowing city water to go back through the pump into the potable water tank. There should be a check valve in the outlet of the pump and it is either defective or stuck open. I'd pull the pump and check it out - they're really not complicated and they are repairable.
Spoke with Joan at Shurflo 1-800-762-8094 and she is sending out a switch and upper-housing kit to attempt to remedy the problem. I should receive it at weeks end and will post results afterwards.

I doubt it will be in before we go to Possum Kingdom TX this weekend so in the interim I am going to attempt to 'plug' the outlet end of the pump with something from home depot so that we can have uniterrupted water during the weekend.

BTW - The suggested listing price for the kit 94-231-20 was 23.99

THANKS FOR THE LEAD INFO ON THE CHECK VALVE as I was clueless to its existance...
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:37 PM   #5
Bendy3
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Smile All systems are a GO

In a nutshell...

The documentation for the water pump was for a Shurflo 2088 series pump rated at 2.8 gallons per minute GPM at a max amperage of 7.

When I ordered the replacement housing from Shurflo I gave them the above information...

When I removed the water pump it was actually a 3900 series. I called the dealer to see what was up and he spoke with Trailmanor about the pump. "They used the 3900 for a short period however decided to go back to the 2088 series because of a better performance record". So I gave him the 3900 which was rated at 3.0 GPM at an amperage of 10 in exchange for a new 2088.

Installed the 2088 into the trailer this evening and BINGO, no more leaking at the fresh water intake and no cycling of the pump every 20 seconds to maintain pressure.

Thanks to all for your input and hope this helps someone in the future.

Bendy3 - OUT~!~
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