Replacing To Toilet with just a standard Aqua-Magic hand Flush

[Steph-WO]

I have a new 2022 2922. I asked a lot of questions about the toilet and the black water. This was a brand new dealer and they did not mention the recirculating toilet or no black water tank. In fact they said it works like any other trailer. My fault for not doing enough homework ahead of time.

The recirculating toilet just will not work for me. I do 90% or more of my camping boondocking. There is not the option of going to a restroom. On my trips I move every two to four days. With all the water it takes to prime the toilet and being unable to drive with water in the toilet, the current toilet is not workable.

I am looking at just putting a a standard Tedford hand flush toilet and using a 10 gallon black water tank. It looks like it will be a one for one switch using the existing flange.

My question is, where do I get waster from? This a brand new trailer and has never been taken out yet. Is there access to water lines behind where the toilet sits?

Thank for the help

 

[Kmikesell]

I have a new 2022 2922. I asked a lot of questions about the toilet and the black water. This was a brand new dealer and they did not mention the recirculating toilet or no black water tank. In fact they said it works like any other trailer. My fault for not doing enough homework ahead of time.

The recirculating toilet just will not work for me. I do 90% or more of my camping boondocking. There is not the option of going to a restroom. On my trips I move every two to four days. With all the water it takes to prime the toilet and being unable to drive with water in the toilet, the current toilet is not workable.

I am looking at just putting a a standard Tedford hand flush toilet and using a 10 gallon black water tank. It looks like it will be a one for one switch using the existing flange.

My question is, where do I get waster from? This a brand new trailer and has never been taken out yet. Is there access to water lines behind where the toilet sits?

Thank for the help

Stephene:
Some Q's for you and my $0.02
The recirculating toilet just will not work for me. (Why not? Is it the concept or the size limitations of the toilet its self?)

I do 90% or more of my camping boondocking. On my trips I move every two to four days. (The standard recalculating toilet last my wife and I at LEAST 3/4 days while boon-docking)

With all the water it takes to prime the toilet (It takes about 2/3 gallons. I start out with less if I know water and dumping the tank might be an issue.)

and being unable to drive with water in the toilet, the current toilet is not workable. (You CAN drive with "water in the toilet, it is contained in the reservoir)

I am looking at just putting a a standard Tedford hand flush toilet and using a 10 gallon black water tank. It looks like it will be a one for one switch using the existing flange. (There are great posts on here about converting to a Sea/Land toilet. Not sure about using a 10 gallon Black tank though)


My question is, where do I get waster from? (The manual says to use the shower head to add water into the toilet to "charge" the system. I usually just drag a water jug in, and add about 2 gallons. Remeber you are adding your OWN "water" to the system.)

This a brand new trailer and has never been taken out yet. Is there access to water lines behind where the toilet sits? (See answer above)

Hope this helps!

 

[Steph-WO]

To me the most important response is the one where you said you can drive with water in the toilet. In may many post across this forum people keep saying that driving with water in the toilet cause spillage. I have even seen posts of people putting plastic over the toilet.

If it is true you can fold the Trail Manor uo and drive to the next camp site without worry of draing the toilet before hand then that changes thinking. I have semm many posts that say that is not feedable, yours is the first to say it is

 

[Bill]

It really depends on how full the tank is, and how rough the road is, and whether the toilet still has the vinyl sleeve in place. If the tank is near full, it can splash up a bit (not a tsunami) up into the bowl. And if the road is rough in addition, it can splash a bit over the rim. But none of this happens if the vinyl sleeve is still in place, to seal off the tank from the bowl. The sleeve is attached to the bottom of the bowl, and closes off the "throat" of the toilet. A lot of folks remove the sleeve - this is the price you pay if you drive with a full tank. We never do.

If you are forced to drive in the worst combination of circumstances (full tank, rough road, lots of stop and go), then stretching a couple lengths of Saran wrap over the bowl adds one more level of protection. Seems like a lot of protection for a very small amount of effort.

Before you make a life-changing decision, why not just fill the tank halfway with clean water, close the trailer, and then go out and drive a few miles? When you get home, open the TM and check to see if there is any splash?

Bill

 

[Kmikesell]

I've taken mine over a VERY rough road, uphill (for about 2 miles) with tank 1/2 full. Not a drop of spillage. but as Bill says YMMV

 

[Shane826]

I’ve seen others try the standard toilet to portable tank route, and always have the same thoughts…

That hose is gonna be disgusting unless you use a ton of water per flush to clean it out. And then you’re filling your tank with mostly flush water. Not to mention you’re using a lot of extra water out of your fresh tank to constantly clean that hose out so TP or poopoo or whatever else doesn’t get stuck in the hose.

Check out the Dometic SeaLand Traveller M28-711C. You HAVE TO get the C at the end, or else your tank will have a pump out port on top (for use in boats) opposed to the drain on the bottom. Only place I’ve ever found the correct one is Scamp Trailers. If the price is a turn-off you can search (I think here, but definitely on TrailManor Fans on Facebook) for Poor Man’s SeaLand (aka PMS). It’s a do-it-yourself version of SeaLand. A bit of assembly is required but it’s less than half the price.

https://www.scamptrailers.com/product/sealand-711-traveler-toilet

Or there’s always the cassette alternative as well.

 

[Kmikesell]

I think if I ever have to replace mine I will go the cassette route. Seems a better solution...For me.

 

[JohnMD]

The sleeve is attached to the bottom of the bowl, and closes off the "throat" of the toilet. A lot of folks remove the sleeve, and loss of the seal is the price you pay if you drive with a full tank.

First, this caught my attention. Why would somebody remove this? We are the second owners of our 2007 TM and I presume the original owners left this as it was installed. When I open it up in the spring, I'll try to double check. I presume it will be obvious when looking into the hole?

Second, we've taken six trips so far. On most of them, knowing we wouldn't have water hookups, I charged the toilet prior to leaving home to save time and freshwater at the campsite. Everything seemed dry upon arriving each time so far. For our upcoming trip from the east coast to Wyoming this summer, I plan to go a few days at a time without emptying the toilet. We also try to use campground facilities when convenient to keep the toilet level lower.

So far, I like the recirculating toilet and hope it lasts a long time so I don't need to replace it.

 

[Kmikesell]

So far, I like the recirculating toilet and hope it lasts a long time so I don't need to replace it.

My DW and I were discussing the recirc toilet with frinds and made mention of many people who Poo-Poo (pun intended) the idea of a recirc toilet. As far as we're concerned it's nto been a problem so far for us. No, or very little smell. No volume issues, nor dumping issues... So for us. We'er happy with it.

 

[Steph-WO]

I almost never stay in campgrounds so using facilities is not possible.

With that said I will take the suggestions given here and start the summer using the current toilet and see how things go. Between May and October I will be on the road for just about 75 days, so I should have a really good idea about the pros and cons at the end of the season.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Bill]

Stephene -

The usual hints for properly using the toilet. They will apply to any toilet, and are mostly pretty obvious:
1. Use a good deodorant. I use Thetford Campa-Chem Original liquid. Other Forum members are partial to others, but some have not been pleased with their choice. The powdered ones seem to cause the most problems, since they sometimes don't dissolve as you expect.
2. Use an adequate dose. We use a half bottle for an overnight stop, a full bottle for longer (until we dump). Don't skimp.
3. Keep the toilet lid down.
4. Keep the bathroom door closed.
5. If needed, turn on the bathroom vent fan.
6. If weather permits, open the bathroom window a bit.

Bill

 

[Steph-WO]

Thank you

I have already purchased the Thetford deodorant

I have made no modifications to the toilet so the flange that closes the bowl from the water should be in place.

SO , I do not need to add the full 3 gallons of water to prine the toilet?

 

[Bill]

SO , I do not need to add the full 3 gallons of water to prine the toilet?

No - nowhere near. A commonly-used method is to add deodorant, and then water just until the pump works, then quit. It will take a few quarts of water to reach the pump, but nowhere near 3 gallons. I have read that some folks who have a real water or capacity limit start with deodorant, but no water at all. Then they limit use to #1 for a while. Either works, but the first is less fussy.

Bill

 

[Steph-WO]

Flushing not Working

I just got back from a 10 day trip along the far eastern coast of Maine. I loved everything about the TM. I knew the first place I was staying did not have water so I filled the fresh water, the hot water heater, and added some water to the toilet. Had no issue at all. When I moved after 5 days, I emptied the toilet and added a some water again. When I got to the new campground, flushing would not work. Push the button and nothing. Since in general I only used the toilet for pee not a big issue but would love to figure it out before I head out again the end of this month for 15 days.

 

[Wavery]

Our pump will start picking up water with 1 3/4G in it. (3 1/2 - half gallon juice bottles).

Just be sure that the handle in the bottom of the toilet is pushed it first. If the handle is pulled out, it probably will require 3 gallons.

 

[commodor47]

I just got back from a 10 day trip along the far eastern coast of Maine. I loved everything about the TM. I knew the first place I was staying did not have water so I filled the fresh water, the hot water heater, and added some water to the toilet. Had no issue at all. When I moved after 5 days, I emptied the toilet and added a some water again. When I got to the new campground, flushing would not work. Push the button and nothing. Since in general I only used the toilet for pee not a big issue but would love to figure it out before I head out again the end of this month for 15 days.

There is also an inline fuse under the push-button cover. This video link may help:

Dick

 

[Steph-WO]

I had plenty of liquid in the tank. I check the main fuse and it is good. Di not know about the small in line fuse. Will check tomorrow and hope that it.

 

[Bill]

If the fuse is blown, Thetford suggests replacing the original 5 amp fuse with a 7 amp unit.

Bill

 

[Steph-WO]

The secondary fuse was blown. I picked up 3 7.5 amp fuse from the marine supply store

Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction

 

[LBrown-TMO]

I almost never stay in campgrounds so using facilities is not possible.

With that said I will take the suggestions given here and start the summer using the current toilet and see how things go. Between May and October I will be on the road for just about 75 days, so I should have a really good idea about the pros and cons at the end of the season.

Thanks everyone.

Stephene, what did you end up doing? Would like to hear an update.