Install Piezo for both the Oven & Cooktop.

Thanks to Bill & Harry for the ground work they did, I simply expanded on their work and contacted Sandy at Metro RV in Dallas (972-554-4678). Ordered the same parts Harry did.
1 x 56096 Piezo Igniter
1 x 57205 Left rear burner
1 x 57203 Right rear burner
1 X 57201 Center burner
1 x 51344 Piezo knob
3 x 57264 Piezo control Wire to each burner

Then went to Lowes and picked up the Piezo Igniter with Side
1 x 83429 $14.94. Note: Get the one with the side burner option.
This came with a side burner igniter with a long enough heat resistant wire to reach the piezo knob.

Also pick up 3M Quick Connect Red: 22-16 gauge

The cook top is easily done just remember to remove the black plastic inserts and install them into the new burners.

You won't need to remove the oven, I was able to do the job with the oven in place, I just asked my daughter to reach down along the side were the temperature wire runs to grab the piezo wire as I fed it up to her.

You'll need some miscellaneous screws and a small nut and bolt plus some tie wraps, these I had around the house. I drilled a small hole in the pilot light flange to hold the igniter. Then bend the igniter wire so it comes close to the pilot feed tube. Cut the wire to length, if you drilled the bolt hole about 1/4 of an inch from the right side of the pilot light flange you will be able to use igniter bracket to position the wire where you need it.

Have fun, it only took me about 30 minutes to install both the cook tops and oven lighter.

12/10/06 UPDATE:

It turned out that I was lucky to get the spark gap equal to the gap on the burner so both sparked when the knob was turned. After using the stove for an extended trip scuba diving at John Pennekamp, I noticed that I wasn't getting a spark every time. To eliminate this problem I simply used the igniter from Lowes and drilled a hole next to the oven knob and separated the oven from the burner.

[Bill]

Oooh! Looks nice. You needed all new burners? Was that expensive? Can you tell why the original burners wouldn't work? Ah, a study of the picture suggests that each new burner has its own spark gap built in - is that it? Does each igniter have a ceramic body to protect it from the heat?

What is the nature of the knob - does it select which of the burners will be sparked?

Finally, I like the long-wire igniter in the oven - I used a short one, and it was kind of tricky to get it adjusted to the right spot without getting the red body of the igniter immersed in the pilot flame (which might eventually destroy it, I suppose).

Nice work! Now I gotta update mine!

Bill

Originally Posted by Bill

Oooh! Looks nice. You needed all new burners? Was that expensive? Can you tell why the original burners wouldn't work? Ah, a study of the picture suggests that each new burner has its own spark gap built in - is that it? Does each igniter have a ceramic body to protect it from the heat?

What is the nature of the knob - does it select which of the burners will be sparked?

Finally, I like the long-wire igniter in the oven - I used a short one, and it was kind of tricky to get it adjusted to the right spot without getting the red body of the igniter immersed in the pilot flame (which might eventually destroy it, I suppose).

Nice work! Now I gotta update mine!

Bill

I think it ran me about $60 plus shipping. And you are right there is a ceramic igniter and the burner has a hole so the gas comes out directly into the spark gap.

The knob rotates a circular drive that compresses a spring which when released strikes the crystal to send a charge down all of the wires. So all the igniters will spark. As you can see by the back side of the knob the Piezo unit has three connectors so to get four sparks to use you'll need to splice in the fourth wire.

Thanks again for your start on this project, you and Harry gave me the ideas that I might be able to light all four burners.
Earl

[CAmark]

Earl,
Several caveats first so you know where I am coming from; 1) It's my "what if" nature so take it for what it's worth; 2) I understand that all four igniters spark with one turn of the knob; and 3) admittedly, the probability of this occurring is small to none but...if there is a gas leak into the oven and you attempt to light any of the burners, isn't there a possibility of an explosion in the oven? That said, I really like the igniter idea, I might have two knobs, one to spark only the oven, but you've done a reallly nice looking job.
Again, just thinking,
Mark

[YWORRYDOG]

Has anyone else done this? When I attach the wire for the sparker in the oven, it will not spark. If I remove the wire to the burner it will. What did I do wrong? It is like only enough spark for one and it goes to the shortest route meaning the burner, unless I unplug it.

[YWORRYDOG]

Bill I am more confused then ever. I don't think that TFMARTY used the push button "snaper" that he got as a grill lighter. It looked to me that he only used the "sparker" and wire lead from that kit, and used a scotch lock to tie it to a wire going from the new Atwood "snaper". (photo 6) That is where my problem comes from. That wire that is Scotch locked with the wire for a burner will only work one "sparker" at a time. The burner will spark, and not the oven, unless I unhook the wire lead at the burner, then the "sparker" in the oven will spark.

[YWORRYDOG]

I used the same parts from Atwood as TFCMARTY

From Marty's pictures and description it does indeed look as if he bought the ignitor system kit from Lowes only for the ignitor electrode and its long wire (and didn't use the spark generator) and then tapped into one of 3 cooktop spark feeds and wired the oven electrode in parallel with it. You can clearly see the red wire "scotch-locked" in in one photo and feeding the oven electrode in another. I can only think that either a) it didn't actually work for Marty and he didn't realize it before he posted, or b) that if you can get the oven and cooktop spark gaps almost identical in "spark impedance" then it might be possible for two sparks to be produced simultaneously - and Marty got really lucky.

[YWORRYDOG]

Finally an answer!!!!! Thank you pbuck1. No offence Bill, I likely was not very clear in presenting my problem. I didn’t screw it up, I just wasn’t lucky! I am now thinking that I can use the “snapper” from the grill kit. I could mount it next to the Atwood “snapper” and use it for the oven “sparker” But before I drill a hole in the front of the stove, does anyone see a problem with that?

12/10/06 UPDATE:

It turned out that I was lucky to get the spark gap equal to the gap on the burner so both sparked when the knob was turned. After using the stove for an extended trip scuba diving at John Pennekamp, I noticed that I wasn't getting a spark every time. To eliminate this problem I simply used the igniter from Lowes and drilled a hole next to the oven knob and separated the oven from the burner.