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05-06-2012, 06:07 PM
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#1
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Guest
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GFCI help
Hi all!
Technical help requested.
We have a 2012 2720 (last off line prior to closing/reopening) which has been in our possession since June 2011. We camped all last year no problems. It has been in garage storage Oct - April in NH.
We pulled it out 3 weeks ago - connected it to shore power, no issues. All elecrical systems go. I just got propane filled yesterday and all propane systems go - hot water heater, furnace, shore water pressure...all good.
Kids went to sleep in it (per usual) with electric heater on (habit, since propane hadn't been filled), clock plugged in. Somewhere between 9 pm - 8 am the GFCI tripped and the indoor outlets no longer work. The GFCI feels "spongy" and will not reset.
What have we checked?
Fuses - replaced (although not necessary, I now know)
Shore outlet - works
Connector plug - works
Extension cord - works
Removed GFCI outlet, and 2 black wires were not connected; we connected those, and when we reconnected shore power we briefly heard a fan noise near the main circuit box/no outlet power at all, no GFCI reset.
(BTW, no external outlets work either)
I just saw on the board that a blown water heater element can cause GFCI to trip - too dark to check that now, but I will.
ALSO - we did have mice in the camper much to our dismay. Investigation reveals no obvious damage, and due to food left over (we found the food source and no cushions destroyed) it appears they were in there a week or two max.
Why would the outlets stop overnight?
Mice were known
Water was tested yesterday 2pm and drained (low drains) 9pm; it has rained 2/3 weeks since we pulled it out and the camper has been set up.
Any and all suggestions are welcome.
I will check the water heater element tomorrow; I am prepared to replace that GFCI outlet if needed. If these 2 fail, then probably back to dealer for mice damage inspection...
Thanks in advance for any / all suggestions
bigd13
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05-06-2012, 06:35 PM
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#2
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,090
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You can get an inexpensive tester for AC outlets. It looks sort of like a plug cut off the end of a cord, and plugs into the outlet just like one. It has 3 lights and the pattern of the lights tells you if the outlet is good, or if not, what the problem is. (The way to decode the lights is written on the device.) This is a very useful thing for troubleshooting problems.
If I were in your shoes, the first thing I would do is use this tester on the outlet that the camper is plugged into (this will require an adapter because the tester does not fit the 30 amp receptacle - but you need to carry this adapter anyway). This will tell you if the trouble is in the camper or in the campground.
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05-06-2012, 06:36 PM
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#3
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Guest
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Couple of things.
If the electric switch on the water heater was on when you plugged the TM into shore power and the water heater was empty, you burned up the element and could cause the GFCI to trip. Check the GFCI, the TM is wired (110V) such that all the outlets are protected by the the one GFCI by the convertor. The fan you heard was most likely the fan in the convertor that runs when is under load. Here is a link on connecting the GFCI properly
http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_...ge_id=35720244
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05-06-2012, 06:39 PM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 275
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The water heater element would also be my first check
__________________
2016 F150 5.0
2008 2720sl
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05-06-2012, 07:02 PM
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#5
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Guest
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I will check the water heater element tomorrow - is there an easy way to do this?
I do find it odd, however, that electric power was lost GFCI tripped 7+ hours AFTER I did a system check, including the water heater (which was checked per protocol - running water through hot and cold, THEN firing up the water heater with hot results) ... don't get me wrong, a water heater element seems like a (relatively) easy fix vs mouse issues, so I'll take it!
I will try that and report back.
Thanks,
bigd13
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05-06-2012, 07:14 PM
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#6
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Guest
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Before removing the element just remove the 2 wires from it and keep them covered with tape for safety, now try your power and if the system works ok, pull the element as it is bad.
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05-06-2012, 07:35 PM
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#7
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Guest
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Thanks, Dave - I knew there was a (relatively) simple way to test this.
Tomorrow, after meetings!
Thanks, all.
bigd13
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05-07-2012, 07:24 AM
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#8
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Guest
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Update:
Tested heating element via Bob's suggestion; heating element good.
Didn't believe it, so hooked up shore water again, and actally started water heater to see...it's still working. (PHEW - good to know I did not make a newbie mistake, although it sure would have been an easy fix).
Now???
I think I will switch out the GFCI.
Any other deep thoughts out there?
I'll let you know if THAT works.
Thanks again!
bigd13
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05-08-2012, 04:20 AM
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#9
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Guest
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I spoke to our dealer, MCD RV in Cape Cod; she thinks if the GFCI won't reset it has to be water somewhere...
I checked junction box (non door side/under camper near fridge); dry as a bone and no evidence of rodents in there. She suggested checking near AC roof unit; hard to tell but no apparent water there either.
Swapping GFCI today; fingers crossed.
bigd13
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05-08-2012, 07:56 AM
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#10
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Downsville, Louisiana
Posts: 1,069
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bigd13,
You talk about removing the GFCI outlet since this is the one that won't reset.
Have you checked and reset the GFCI circuit breaker in the 110 vac power distribution panel? When it trips, it takes out all internal and external 110 vac outlets except the one for the refrigerator that is behind the upper fridge vent.
Where do the 2 black wires go that you re-connected?
__________________
Mike Laupp
2013 Jayco Eagle Premier 351RLTS 5er - Honda 2000i x2 w ext. run tank
2017 F350 King Ranch ultimate CCLB SRW 6.7L V8 TD Fx4 BakFlip F1 & BakBox
TM History: '97 2720, '02 2720SL, '03 2720SL, '04 3326K. 2001 - 2012 yrs owned.
1990 Isuzu Trooper II 283 V6
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