Needed new curtains #1: Finished

[KMOlsen]

We bought our 2008 TM 2720QB in Dec 2020 having sold our small A-Frame. We'd looked for this configuration for several months and were so thrilled when we found it, we didn't notice there were no curtains! This TM forum has been so helpful for all our repairs and upgrades, we hope this will be a good contribution for others who might be like me, NOT A SEWER, but a willing to take on a project simply to solve a problem.

We're in WA state so our TM was stored Dec until April when we started preparing it for camping. This weekend in June was our first run and the photos below show the 'nice' finished product as well as the the reality of how it's used.

Additional note: we replaced the wood over the benches with stronger plywood and carpet so we can use the seats without cushions. The left side is the step into the bed and our dogs can sleep or hang out next to us. It was nappy time when this photo was taken

[KMOlsen]

For anyone interested in replacing the original curtains, here are some of the important parts and tools to help with the job.

- The carriers and screw covers were purchased from Amazon, and so was the hand held staple gun kit. That was only used that when reattaching the valance above the forward bed, which required some of the long brads which came in the kit, but the staple remover was also necessary.

- The staples for attaching the fabric to all of the valances came from eBay, which were used in the pneumatic staple gun, as most of the project was done in the garage.

- The fabric mat and cutter (like a pizza cutter) were ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL to get the panels cut and squared. Here's one on Amazon "WorkLion 36" x 48" Self Healing Cutting Mat" and when you're spending hundreds of dollars on fabric, don't hesitate investing in this.

- The other tools include having at least one "quilting ruler square" (I had two), a sewing gauge, and obviously a sewing machine, ironing board, and air compressor; I also purchased a new pair of scissors for the job, and two spools of polyester thread when I purchased the fabric.

[KMOlsen]

While I'm not qualified to give sewing expertise, here are some important things to consider as you plan out your project, or decide if you even want to take this one. I was able to only commit one day each weekend in the garage, and it took 5 full weekends to complete this, after spending the equivalent of another full day or two shopping for fabric and doing all the calculations before committing.

- In our TM, there are 10 windows with pairs of curtains, plus I did 3 privacy panels for the beds, so 23 panels total. The privacy panels and the large widows at each end don't have bottom slider tracks. I also elected to not use the bottom track for the bathroom window. All other windows use two tracks, so you need to know the distance between the tracks, then add about 1/4 inch for 'stretch' as the top panel will need to slide over the valance.

- At first, I was going to leave the valances as those along with the bed side rails intimidated me and I knew would add more time. (I work full time so wanted this DONE!) but after removing the valances saw it was mostly a matter of stapleing (not sewing) and I found a fabric I loved, so made everything fresh and new! The bottom part of the valance I replaced with fabric that matches the cushions - not tackleing that project!

- TIP: give your windows numbers (#1-#10) then write the numbers on the backs of the valances as you remove them. This way the holes will match those already in the walls. Also write numbers on the backside of your fabric panels as you cut them so you know where they should hang. The distances between the tracks may vary by a half inch or so.

- Save your old fabric - like from the bed rail - so you can find the former holes (in the TM) when putting the new rails and valances back in place. I pre-poked the holes, using a large construction nail, so the screws would not catch on the fabric as it was being drilled back into place. The photo also shows a new screw cover base on one of the decorative screws, and I used 3 of the 14-piece packs.

- The spacing between the carriers will determine how deep the creases will be when you open the curtains. I used about 3" give or take as they were placed evenly along the width of the panel. The carriers came in a pack of 14 and I used 11 packs, but if you use different spacing, you might need a different number.

[KMOlsen]

Well, if you read the #3 post, I mentioned not using the lower slider track in the bathroom curtains so here is a photo of that.

I also read other posts with various comments on the shower curtains; at this time, we're not replacing those. We found the existing curtains (after going through the washer & dryer) work just fine with a chip clip keeping the shower head and faucet side closed.

There's just enough room behind the faucet handles for our travel sized shampoo and we added over-the-door hooks for our towels and clothes: a 3-hook on the inside for the towel, and a 6-hook on the outside for the clothes.

Also using this thread to show off how our new C-Head composting toilet looks in space. That is a DANDY! You can sit on the lid without cracking it, and it does NOT smell one bit. VERY happy with that improvement. Maybe that will be a separate post.

[KurtA44]

for sharing. Redoing our 2000 3124KB after our 1st outing last month & glad to see curtain help! I just removed the bottom altogether & am planning on hanging & unhanging every time.

[JSShattuck]

Ours are getting in bad shape. We haven't decided how best to replace them, but this is very helpful. We have had the TM it for two years.

2007 3124KS

[G&KEllis]

I have gotten the drape carriers with the elastic and some with holes(I'm assuming for metal drape hooks) How do you like the elastic ones?