2004 Explorer towing a 3023

We are purchasing a 3023 and want to tow it using our Ford Explorer, which did not come with the towing package. It is a 4x4 with the 4.0 L engine and only has the class two hitch. Stated weights that this vehicle can pull are 3400 lbs, 350 tongue weight. It could however pull 5700 lbs properly equipped. What do we need to change on this tw to make it adequate for towing the 3023. I have tried to search for an answer and have no search capability so am resorting to asking even though I know this is probably mentioned somewhere here I know we need an electric brake controller and to change out 4 point electrical plug to a 7 point.

TIA
Rob Coulter

Search function doesn't function for me, so I read the entire board here plus about every other online resourse I could find. There seems to be no agreement on what my Explorer can safely tow. I have seen posts of people pulling large hybrids, that I would never consider, and people that say I shouldn't pull anything bigger than a radio flyer wagon. However I think that I have learned one thing. The towing package from ford on this vehicle includes:
3.73 axle, 7 pin connector, and class III/IV hitch.

So if I add a:
transmission cooler,
Prodigy brake controller, with needed 7 pin connector
class III/IV Equalizer 4 Point sway control Hitch,

Would this be "properly equipped" to tow a 3023? More details on my explorer are 2004 Ford Explorer 4x4 with the 4.0 engine, 114 inch wheelbase, 3.55 ratio REGULAR axle, and a class II hitch.

Thanks,
Rob

You'll definitely need a class III hitch, 7-pin electrical and a brake controller (prodigy is good choice). You don't need sway control but you will want a WDH. Many on this forum swear by the Equalizer which gives you sway control anyway - but some believe sway control is not a good idea since it may mask a real towing problem. I don't know if you need a transmission cooler. I haven't seen it mentioned as part of the Explorer tow prep package so maybe your vehicle already has one, esp. since it's a 4x4??
I'ts not clear exactly what brings the tow capacity down from 5700# (I read 5350 for the 4x4 somewhere) to 3400. Certainly the class II hitch receiver would do that on its own pretty much, but it not clear what contribution the rear axle ratio has, if any. The higher ratio is obviously better for towing, but perhaps you can compensate by being in a lower gear when towing (while enjoying the better mpg when not towing).
Your wheelbase is better than most in the "Is my TV adequate?" category
Even when brought up to the 5000+lbs towing spec, your TV will fall in the generally-agreed category of "won't know the TM's there on the flats of the East and Midwest, but will know it's there on the hills; and expect to be pretty uncomfortable towing in the high altitudes and steep grades of the Rockies and Sierras".

-Paul

Here is a link to one of the previous threads in which towing capabilities, including that of an Explorer, are discussed:

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=1477

Adding a transmission oil cooler and 7-pin connector may be relatively easy to do. A hitch shop may be able to put on a heavier duty hitch for you in an afternoon. Converting your rear axle's gearing to a higher ratio, however, will be quite expensive - perhaps $2,500 to $3,000 or more - and that job requires an expert's touch to produce a satisfactory result. Like you we were faced with some of the same problems with our previous tow vehicle, a Ford F-150 that did not come from the factory with a towing package. I added a transmission oil cooler, heavy-duty hitch, brake controller and wiring hookup for a trailer but that still didn't make the truck equal to one equipped with a factory-equipped towing package. The F-150 pulled our 3124KS well on level grades but struggled when it came to steep grades (such as our Hwy. 5's pass in the "Grapevine" area). Having learned from those experiences, we moved on to a truck equipped with a towing package and a little more horsepower (at the sacrifice of gas mileage, I'm saddened to say).

Where is RockyMtnRay? He's our local expert on the capabilities of tow vehicles.

If you change the gears in the rear differential, you also have to change them in the front differential or else never use 4 wheel drive. If you change only one and put it into 4 wheel drive you will tear things up - like u-joints, tires, internal parts of the transfer case, etc. Changing gears in differentials is a very expensive option and I would suggest that you try the other options first and resort to the gear change as a last option. Is your Explorer a stick shift or an automatic. Many stick shift vehicles are rated a lot lower than the automatics since the extra weight on the clutch (as in starting on a hill) wears the clutch out more rapidly. An automatic will just start out more easily than a stick shift and you obviously don't have to slip the clutch so the manufacturer rates the stick shift lower and in some cases makes the warranty void if the towing capacity is exceeded. As was stated, some hills will be really long and tiresome with the 4.0L engine screaming for mercy. We have a 2619 and I don't think I would want to tow anything bigger excepth maybe a 2720. It also depends a lot on what part of the country you will be towing in. Many places you will have no trouble, but you may want to stay away from some parts of Colorado! Good luck in your search.

Thanks for all the replys, our explorer is an automatic, and we won't be trying to change out the differential, I think it would be more cost effective to just trade to a larger tv. We do want to tow using this for a summer at most two, no large mountain passes are planned for this years vacation, just some rolling hills and I realise that I won't be able to win any races using this explorer, and will plan to take our time. I have towed a 2500 lb popup using a windstar in Colorado and know what an underpowered vehicle is like up there. More than power I am concerned with preparing everything with safety in mind and of course don't want to blow the transmission. We should have planned better when trading our vehicle hindsight is always 20/20 it seems.

Again many thanks for the information you all are sharing with me.
Rob

Don't get discouraged, In 1979 we bought a 1979 Subaru station wagon and a 1979 Coleman tent trailer. The Coleman dealer said the Subaru wouldn't tow the trailer, but we did it any way. It not only towed it just fine, including Colorado, but we got 27 miles to a gallon! That Subaru went on to run for over 200,000 miles before I gave it away. The guy I gave it to put another 75,000 on it and never had the engine worked on! You just never know some things until you try it for yourself. Just go for it!

[Virginia Deacon]

This past Spring, we bought our TrailManor 2720SL. We pull it with our 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 w/SOHC V6. Perhaps, I can be some help to you.

For several years, before we bought our TrailManor, we owned several Coleman pop-up campers, including our last - a Mesa model weighing about 3,200 lbs. The TrailManor is much easier to tow, for several reasons:

- Our TM dealer agreed that we should add an Equal-I-zer hitch, due to the tongue weight of the TM. I had him install it, when we picked up our new TM (we already had a Class III hitch installed on our Explorer.).
- The sway-control feature adds safety, and I’m all for that.

Several things I have learned from experience, as well as from other RVers:

- DON’T drive in a lower gear, when towing. DO turn off overdrive. You will still get good gas mileage, and you won’t be straining the transmission or the engine.
- DO read your Explorer Owner Manual, for towing information and tips.
- DON’T drive at high speeds (over 60 mph). You’ll sacrifice gas mileage and safety, if you do. If we wanted to race, we’d try a ‘vette!
- On the way home from our dealer, I discovered that I could not see ANYTHING directly behind the TM. After reading several posts on this forum, I bought a set of McKesh mirrors. I use them every time we travel now (set at about 108” center-to-center) and have a clear view of EVERYTHING behind the TM (In some states, this is required.). And, backing into our parking spot at home is easier.
- Stop once in awhile and take a break, give your car one, too! Sometimes, the view is more than worth the time “wasted.”
- Every year, I have the Explorer’s transmission fluid checked, and every few years, I have it drained and the transmission serviced by my TRUSTED service department – NOT a transmission shop.
- I make sure the TV brakes and shocks are in top shape.
- If there is another, less stressful (for you and TV) to get where you are going, take it. See below.

We took our former pop-up to Arkansas, last year. I didn’t know the area and didn’t ask enough questions about the roads. Sometimes, it was very hilly and winding road; all I could do was pull into the truck lane, put on the flashers, and monitor the temperature gauge. I also was concerned about going DOWN some of those hills, once we went over the top. Coming back, we used a different route – a little longer, but straight and smooth. We will have to travel over the Shenandoah Mountains, on our way west. I already know a couple routes through the passes. When we go to Staunton, this Fall, I know a couple “rest areas” on Afton Mountain. See what I mean? Even though our TrailManor is easier to pull than our pop-up was, I still try to plan on taking the “path of least resistance,” when possible, and enjoying the trip.

I hope this information is helpful. Happy camping!

Virginia Deacon
2006 TrailManor 2720 SL
2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 w/SOHC V6 and Equal-I-Zer hitch

Virginia

Thanks a bunch for sharing your knowledge with us. Knowing someone here is actually successfully pulling something similar with a vehicle that is close to what we have goes a long way in settling some of the nerves that have set in after we decided to purchase this trailer. After being reassured by the friendly neighborhood car dealer, and a trailmanor dealer that wanted to make a sale, (who didn't even mention that we would need a heavier hitch and we didn't end up wanting to deal with) we thought we should do our own research. I to don't have any desire to race, just get where I'm going with the least amount of stress possible. Your advice will go a long way toward just that, I will be checking out some mirrors, without ever actually towing the trailmanor I didn't know if mirrors would be needed or not. I will be printing you post and committing it to memory to help me out on that first voyage home.

Thanks again,
Rob

We have a 31`24KS and pull it with a Mercury Mountaineer (basically an Explorer). We are a couple who swears by the E-Qualizer after having had an accident towing a regular travel trailer. We feel that we are towing a bit close to the edge of our limits, though it tows fine and without any sway. We have the towing package on the MOuntaineer. I would suggest that you make a commitment to towing carefully and slowly (65 and under). Next time, we would choose a truck, becuase the wheelbase on your/our car is a bit short for what we are towing. But, it can be done. Just plan for emergencies as best you can by balancing the weight, having the best braking equipment and knowing how to use it, having the E-Qualizer, and watching all the other non-towers on the road who cannot figure that hyou need more stoping room, etc. Queeniereads aka Judi