Getting my new 2002 TM Home

I have a 2008 Chevy Trail Blazer:
tow capability.: 5400 lbs.
Axle Ratio: 3.42
GVWR : 5550
GCWR: 11500 lbs.
Hitch Weight rating: The weight-carrying hitch limit for TrailBlazer is a 4,000-lb. trailer with 400-lb. tongue weight.

We will be towing a 2002 2027SL TrailManor: (Being purchased out of Riverton Utah)

Towing Length: 20’3”
Approx. Dry Weight: 2865 lbs.
Approx. Tongue Weight: 392 lbs.
Approx. Load Capacity: 1210 lbs.
Approx. GVWR: 4075 lbs.
Single Axle

I live in Tucson and am picking up the TM next saturday (4-26-08) in Riverton Utah. My trailBlazer has a Hitch assembly
I need:
1. shank assembly
2. Head assembly
3. Spring Bar assembly
4. Chain and Bracket assembly

Any recommendation on brands? I understand from reading various threads that I don't need sway control. I will be getting a P3 brake controller.

Should I do this here in Tucson before leaving or wait until I get to Utah to have it put on?

so much to do so little time

[Bill]

I understand you to say that you still need the weight distributing hitch (WDH), and are wondering whether to buy it in Tucson or in Utah.

My vote would be for Tucson. That way you'll avoid any possible hassles in Utah in picking out the one you want, finding where it is available, picking it up, learning what it looks like and how to use it, and so forth. It would be a shame to get to Utah, and find that no one has the one you want in stock, and it has to be ordered from somewhere. (I realize that this is less likely in Riverton / Salt Lake City.) Tucson has a lot of RV service and supply places - you'll have no trouble finding what you want. I don't know about Riverton.

You can do the initial setup at home - set the top of the ball 19 or 20 inches above the ground, and the TM will be somewhere near level. Then you can fine-tune it later if needed. But be sure you understand how to choose the proper number of links on the chain before you go, so that you get proper weight distribution. There is a tutorial in the TM Reference Library, aka TM Info You Won't Find Anywhere Else.

The other option is to call ahead and arrange to have a WDH waiting for you. The advantage is that you can pay the dealer to set it up at the right height, and do the chain-link choosing for you (at extra cost of course) if you are not comfortable doing it. You didn't mention whether you are buying your TM from a dealer or a private party. If a private party, does he have a WDH that could be part of the package? If a dealer, he should be willing to set up the hitch for little cost if you buy it from him.

As to brand, the old standys are Reese, Hidden Hitch, Draw-Tite, and a number of others. I would suggest you get a two-springbar unit, with a rating of 800-1000 pounds. Many people choose the Equal-I-Zer, and apparently it works well. But to me it is quite expensive, a little harder to use, and as you say, you don't need the sway control that is part of that price.

Finally, I'm assuming that your TrailBlazer has a Class III/IV hitch receiver (2 inch square opening, not 1 inch) and a 7-pin wiring connector (not 4-pin) mounted near the hitch.

I wasn't sure if you are asking the same question about the P3 controller (a good choice, by the way). If so, my answer would probably be much the same.

Hope that helps.

Bill

[SCBillandJane]

Another suggestion check the age of the tires and spare. Look at the tire section of the forum and you will see that it is recommended to change them when they are 5 years old regardless of how good they look. If you decide to replace them before the return trip, call ahead to a tire store to make sure the right size is in stock. You will also need a square drive screw screw driver to remove the wheel well cover. Tire stores don't have them. If the trailer already has a weight distributing hitch, be sure that the owners can tell you how to use it safely. We bought our Trailmanor from a widow who didn't have any information. If there is a Camping World or other hitch place close by, go in and ask all those "dumb questions" while you have some time. We did and were glad we did.

[Mr. Adventure]

We had a similar set of decisions when we bought our used TM last September, and you're right about this being a lot to think about in a short time. What I learned:

- You can buy all this stuff there, locally, or on the Internet. the advantage of buying at home is that you get it all done by the same people who you will be able to go see when you get back (if you tell them to set the ball at 20" to be in the ballpark like Bill says, and then have it adjusted better when you get back) (sorry about the pun).

- The brake controller and trailer electrical connector installation were the hardest part. I had to do it myself because the local RV dealer couldn't work me into the schedule in time. Most of the time there is a connector kit available that helps a lot.

- The hitch was pretty easy (I bought a Reese 1000, because it's a little lighter than the ones made from heavier bar stock, from RVexit.com, because they were cheap at $190, including shipping). But I did have to adjust it 3 times before I got it right. The good news is that the installation instructions are all available on the Internet so that you can decide about the installation job before you buy anything. You don't need 1000#, because 600# would be enough, but the extra you're not using doesn't seem to be hurting anything.

- When hitching, the chain links determine how tight the bars are. After lots of analysis, I've decided that the easiest is actually the best: Lower the trailer on the hitch ball, stop lowering before the vehicle settles, engage the chain clamp where you can comfortably engage it and you'll be able to clamp it without a lot of force (maybe 30 pounds). Check your work by measuring at each of the 4 wheel wells with a tape measure before and after hitching. If the front numbers are higher hitched than not, go down another link in the chain.

Join the Forum, and let us all know how it turns out!

Thanks, I will.

I went ahead and scheduled the BC installation for this tuesday (Tek... Prodigy) and called a RV service in Utah. and scheduled the installation of a Equalizer 1000/10,000 for next Saturday. It came out to $150 less than I could get the work done here in Tucson. Equalizers are made in Utah maybe that has something to do with the cost. While I am a first time RVer, I lived in Utah in the eighties and know that this dealership has been around for at least 30 years. The guy is even bringing in an installer on a Saturday for me.

The previous owner towed his TM with a Nisson Frontier no WDH, no SWAY control, and no Brake controller. Better man than I am.

I had one of my younger brothers go check it out. He said it was solid, no rust, A/C worked, Heater worked, it is clean (needs a little dusting). the chair is comfortable.

I wonder what has changed on the 2027sl between 2002 and 2008. I'm told ours doesn't have an outside shower. and the air is under a cabinet???? But from what we've seen in many pictures and my bros report.....I think we are going to be very happy.

Well we got up to Utah. Stayed at my brother's home. Woke up the next morning and went to the RV dealership to get the Equalizer installed. As I mentioned above, the installation was $150 less in Utah than here in Tucson. Trint Citte of RV Citte in Roy, Utah took off and additional $75.00 on the final bill. (I don't know why) This was very unexpected since he brought in a technition to do the work on a Saturday when his service department is usually closed. So if any of ya'll are up that way and need work done I'd highly recommend them.
After the receiver was installed we met with the seller to make final inspection of the TM and to complete the transaction. After a few minor feasco's on the seller part we completed the deal and went back to my brother's. (having missed the opportunity to get back to the RV dealership to have them finish installing the sway bars): I read through the instructions and installed them myself. Meanwhile my eldest boxer has gotten into something (plant, wasp, bees, spider???) and her face is swollen up to the size of a volleyball. A sleepless night with her and we are on the road home.

One minor problem with the TM on the way home: The door swung open a few times. Fix 1: paper wedge. Didn't hold. Fix 2: wood wedge. Didn't hold. Fix 3: found a small piece of timing belt from a semi. It worked.
About 2:00 in the AM (Monday morning) my DW looks past me out the drivers window and sees "RV CENTRAL" "honey they do detailing, can you take the TM to them today". $300.00 and a lousy job later our TM is parked infront of the house.

Since then, my DW redetailed the inside. I hand scrubbed the outside top to bottom with soft scrub. Replace one tire. Stripped and recaulked the whole trailer. bought pillows for the sofa, adapter (we lost it on the way home, improperly stowed). recharged the battery, replaced LP lines, replaced the fuses, and bought bedding and kitchen stuff.

tommorrow (saturday)5-17-08:
oiling, lubing, greasing, cleaning and sanitizing water systems, testing water, charging recirculating toilet, testing ref. (battery/AC/propane), testing oven and grill).

Future items:
outside shower, outside grill, radio, outside speakers and finally TV and TV modifications. (thinking about building an extension off of cabinet with automated lift and swivel system).

Who needs to go camping I'm having fun with it parked in front of the house

John,

I read your account of buying the older TM. It sounds like a lot of work but.... We bought a brand new TM last fall and I think I've done a lot of work on it since then...pulled and balanced tires, reinstalled MW oven a couple of times, replaced shower faucet, installed a privacy curtain between the bathroom and kitchen and installed wall mounts for the TV set in the bedroom and living area. I've also removed the battery and winterwized once (which I will do differently next year since the outside shower has also failed and will need to be replaced). I'm sure I've forgotten a few things too.

One thing I did, which you might consider, is putting together a more specialized toolbox to keep in the TV that has a combination of larger tools for tire and frame work, plumbing tools and materials and electrical tools and materials. My test of whether I have the right tools is that I use it exclusively to do repairs in my driveway. When I find I don't have something and have to get it from the garage, I make a note and try to add it to the toolbox. Note that tightening bolts on the hitch parts requires some big wrenches. I carry two monster adjustable crescent wrenches for that.

Hope you have fun! I'm sure you will and welcome to the world of TM owners.

Regards,

Phil

Originally Posted by Azcamper69

One minor problem with the TM on the way home: The door swung open a few times.

Since then, my DW redetailed the inside. I hand scrubbed the outside top to bottom with soft scrub. Replace one tire. Stripped and recaulked the whole trailer. bought pillows for the sofa, adapter (we lost it on the way home, improperly stowed). recharged the battery, replaced LP lines, replaced the fuses, and bought bedding and kitchen stuff.

tommorrow (saturday)5-17-08:
oiling, lubing, greasing, cleaning and sanitizing water systems, testing water, charging recirculating toilet, testing ref. (battery/AC/propane), testing oven and grill).

It would take me several weeks to get done what all you did in 2 days.

About the door swinging open: You can get a new swivel clip from the factory that might correct that problem. Also, while lowering the front shell, but before latching, I swing the nylon catch that connects the doors together up past the spring clips on the sidewall. That helps hold the bottom of the door closed, just in case the door comes loose from the main clip.

If you have the original tires on the TM, you might want to consider changing all of the tires instead of just 1.

Chap