Kumho blowout!

[Joseph]

Battle ready . . .

I like those rims.... The TM has always reminded me of some sort of beach landing craft and those black rims fit the bill!.... Here is hoping that the rest of your trip goes smooth with no problems. With a prayer on my lips and my fingers crossed for you!

Thank you for the pictures and sharing what is happening.

 

[grakin]

Just for grins...maybe use your gauge on your TV and compare it to your TPMS numbers, if that's possible...just to make sure the gauge is reading correctly. Or, better yet, two gauges on your trailer (with higher pressures than your TV).

 

[terryh]

Tire Pressure Gauge

I have been told that the best pressure gauge is the bourdon-tube type. I saw this on the CarTalk web site some years ago, bought one (direct from the manufacturer, not from CarTalk), and have been very pleased with it. It has a lifetime guarantee.

 

[gmferg]

The fact that the axle is attached out of alignment by 1" bugs me. I'm picturing the TM tires being constantly out of alignment and being dragged sideways. Could this have been contributing to all the blowouts since the beginning, and is it going to continue with the new 15s? I would like to hear WMTIRES opinion on this.

 

[M&M Hokie]

The fact that the axle is attached out of alignment by 1" bugs me. I'm picturing the TM tires being constantly out of alignment and being dragged sideways. Could this have been contributing to all the blowouts since the beginning, and is it going to continue with the new 15s? I would like to hear WMTIRES opinion on this.

I too am interested in this contributor because it has to add heat to the equation. I lack the experience to know just how much of this type of shear condition would be considered typical. I almost want to go crawl under my TM and see if I can do some measurements to check how square my install is. I never would have thought to check the axle/frame geometry.

 

[Shrimpburrito]

Terryh - Thanks for the suggestion. I checked out the Cartalk page, and found the one you mentioned as manufactured by Accu-gage. The look just like the one I remember seeing as a kid, and since my Dad always bought quality, I know that must be it! I just ordered one of their bourbon tube gauges, and I'm really hoping it comes with some bourbon -- I think that may be all that can help at this point. Being that we're in the middle of a long trip, I'm going to attack this from as many angles as I can. This is the one I bought: http://www.getagauge.com/Tire-Gauges/Accu-Gage-RDF160X.cfm

The TST system I ordered was just announced (the 507RV). Unlike their earlier version, which several board members here have purchased, this version has user-replaceable batteries in the sensors, a suction cup mount, an easier programming procedure (no ID's required apparently), and supposedly a more friendly interface. They are expecting to ship the first lot within a week, so at this point, they only take orders by phone. It is announced here.

I'll be at the TM factory Thursday morning. I hope they have their welders ready.

Dave

 

[Redhawk]

The local Discount Tire claims the Carlise's are the best they have and their #1 seller. Hopefully that will ease your concern a bit. You'd think if they were troublesome, we'd have heard about it by now. He was shocked when I ordered the Maxxis.

Sorry for your troubles...hope the rest of your trip is great!!!!

 

[Al-n-Sue]

John - you must go to the same Discount Tire I do - he pitched me the Carlisle's as well. I was tempted since they were rated E and were significantly less $$ - but I bought Maxxis as well. Only had one trip so far (to Cheyenne Mtn - so you know that was not a test! ) but we'll give them a longer shot this weekend - to Red Feather Lakes.

 

[Wavery]

The fact that the axle is attached out of alignment by 1" bugs me. I'm picturing the TM tires being constantly out of alignment and being dragged sideways. Could this have been contributing to all the blowouts since the beginning, and is it going to continue with the new 15s? I would like to hear WMTIRES opinion on this.

If the axle was not square with the frame, the trailer would not track straight. 1" out of square would be quite evident just by looking in your mirrors but to be sure, you could have someone follow you and see if the trailer favors one side.

My right side tire is about 1/4" from the rear frame member. The left side is 2" from the rear frame member. The difference is the location of the frame member, not the location of the axle mount.

The way to check is simply to measure from the front, outer edge of the tire to the center tip of the trailer hitch. The distance should be exactly the same.

 

[robertkennel]

Discount tire has some good trailer tire facts. Search "discount tire trailer facts". Robert

Or search "cedar rapids tire trailer facts" also good tips.

 

[Bill-TMO]

ShrimpBurrito posted

... And the tires run fairly cool. No more than luke warm on a 85-degree day....

Dave -

Based on my experience with 15" Marathons (thanks, Bobby), you will find cool tires to be the normal situation. And you will enjoy the feeling of confidence you get each time you touch them. You've made a good move.

Careful, though. Don't panic, as I did, when one of the 15" tires felt quite a bit warmer than the other (not hot, but WARMER)! Turned out that the tire on the sunny side of the TM feels quite a bit warmer than the tire on the shady side. I've noted this several times since, and each time I have to calm my racing pulse.

Bill

 

[Wavery]

Dave,

Would you mind measuring the OD on your new 15" tires. I am installing a lift kit on my TM and I think that I will have to move my axle forward a bit (even after a 2.5" lift). I was thinking that I might move it 1" but I'm not sure that will be necessary to go that far. I currently have less than 1/4" clearance between my right tire and the frame member behind the tire. I'm actually surprised that the tire doesn't touch the frame at highway speeds.

Maybe wmtire already has that measurement. I thought that someone had posted them at one time but I can't find it.

 

[wmtire]

Maybe wmtire already has that measurement. I thought that someone had posted them at one time but I can't find it.

I don't have a measurement, but there is a formula that we use to get a real close approximation.

Say for example you have a metric sized tire of 225/75R15. The first number (225) is the section width. The second number (75) is the aspect ratio and the last number (15) is the rim diameter.

Here is the formula

(Section Width X Aspect ratio X 2) divided by 2540, then add rim diameter= approx tire diameter

(225 X 75 X 2) =33750

33750 divided by 2540 = 13.287

13.287 + 15 = 28.287 inches is approximate tire diameter.

You multiply the section width and aspect ratio by two, to give you the height of the two (or top and bottom) sidewalls of the tire.

You divide this result by 2540 because the tire size section width to begin with was in millimeters (225 millimeters). There are 25.40 mm to an inch, so we are converting it all over to inches at that stage and moving our decimal place (which we need to do to properly add it it to the wheel diameter which is given in inches). Technically, the aspect ratio is a percentage of the section width (or 75 % in our example). It's easier to just use a whole number and use 2540 in the conversion part. (instead of .75 and 25.40)

Now you take this converted number, which is the height in inches of the two sidewalls, and add it to the rim diameter (or hole in the middle of the tire).

You now have the approximate diameter of the tire in inches. It should work well enough to figure out your clearances, etc.

 

[Wavery]

I don't have a measurement, but there is a formula that we use to get a real close approximation.

Say for example you have a metric sized tire of 225/75R15. The first number (225) is the section width. The second number (75) is the aspect ratio and the last number (15) is the rim diameter.

Here is the formula

(Section Width X Aspect ratio X 2) divided by 2540, then add rim diameter= approx tire diameter

(225 X 75 X 2) =33750

33750 divided by 2540 = 13.287

13.287 + 15 = 28.287 inches is approximate tire diameter.

You multiply the section width and aspect ratio by two, to give you the height of the two (or top and bottom) sidewalls of the tire.

You divide this result by 2540 because the tire size section width to begin with was in millimeters (225 millimeters). There are 25.40 mm to an inch, so we are converting it all over to inches at that stage and moving our decimal place (which we need to do to properly add it it to the wheel diameter which is given in inches). Technically, the aspect ratio is a percentage of the section width (or 75 % in our example). It's easier to just use a whole number and use 2540 in the conversion part. (instead of .75 and 25.40)

Now you take this converted number, which is the height in inches of the two sidewalls, and add it to the rim diameter (or hole in the middle of the tire).

You now have the approximate diameter of the tire in inches. It should work well enough to figure out your clearances, etc.

Thank you very much Bobby....I knew that you would have the "Proper" answer.

 

[PopBeavers]

If I were to convert to 15 inch wheels, but install a low profile tire that so that the overall tire diameter is the same, what would I gain? I would think that the air volume would decrease, therefore making the tire run hotter.

I also have only 1/4 inch clearance as I back the TM into the garage.

Letting air out is not an option because I park it against a wall.

 

[saltbranch]

"My TM tracks very slightly to the right due to the factory welding the axle about an inch or so (IIRC) further back on one side vs. the other. Could that contribute to failure, or would that just result in uneven wear, similar to a car out of alignment?"

I would think this would have alot to do with your problem.I do question how you know its an inch off and how you measured it. The reason I ask is that I have built several single axle and tandem axle flatbed trailers. The way you measure is go to a point on the axle closest the to wheel and measure to the center of the ball hitch. I usually "eyeball" the ball hitch center and tape some string and let it drop with a fishing weight(plumb bob) tied on before it hits the ground. Then have someone hold the tape to the outer most common point on each side of the axle, measure to the string. I am good with a 1/4" difference. You cannot go from same side frame to axle measurements, think of the trailer as a triangle as thats what you are pulling, just a box mounted on top of the "triangle"
I have never used torsion axles, just leaf spring setups. I have never looked under my TM closely at the axle to be honest. Surely they are not welded in place, and are bolted in. The torsion axles mounts should be slotted to allow for adjustment. I cant say for sure, but a 1" difference would create wear and heat I would think.
Also when trailer is in storage are the tires covered? I know I have run into tire problems with a trailer at work that is not used much, but when loaded to near capacity I am having tires blowout that are 2-3 yrs old and these a 19.5 tire with less the 20k on them.