What tires can/should I buy for a 2720?

ThreeWolfes

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Sorry if this has already been covered, but I can't seem to find the answer in the existing posts.

I have a 2008 2720 for which I need to buy new tires. I'm trying to decide whether or not to buy 14" tires as it currently has, or go ahead and move up to 15" tires now rather than later. But how do I know what tires will fit? Is there an easy way to know what size I can get, such as ST225 75R15 to replace the current ST215 75R14? And, is there an easy way to identify if the lift kit is already on my TM? I have read several posts that state that in 2008 the factory started adding the lift kit to all models.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
If you have a 2" ×2" tube between the axle mount and trailer frame, you have the lift kit. For safety and security, I'd recommend it. If you look at some of my posts about tires, you'll see I went through the same questions you are going through now.

Others got 225/75-R15 on, I went with the Goodyear Endurance. I'm keeping the old tires and rims for when I store the trailer.
 
If you have a 2" ×2" tube between the axle mount and trailer frame, you have the lift kit.

Larry, that is not necessarily true. Ours is a 2007 2720SL and in 2007 the factory started using an axle with a different angle so the 2" X 2" tube wasn't needed to obtain the same lift.

Keith
 
Thanks Keith,

Did your 2720SL have the 14" or 15" wheels originally?

Anyway, it looks as if Meteor can go ahead and upgrade to 15" wheels right away.
 
I just upgraded to 15 inch tires and wheels. I purchased Powerking Towmaster 205 75r 15 from Amazon. I posted a photo of the clearance. These are D rated tires. I believe they were 64 bucks each. They were 6 months old when delivered.
 

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I forgot, I also installed the lift kit.
 

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Another photo of 15 tire clearance
 

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I have a 2008 2720 for which I need to buy new tires. I'm trying to decide whether or not to buy 14" tires as it currently has, or go ahead and move up to 15" tires now rather than later. But how do I know what tires will fit?
You asked several questions, of course, and the answers have changed over the years.

TM owners used to upgrade from the OEM 14-inch tires to 15-inch tires in order to get more load capacity. At that time, all 14-inch trailer tires seemed to be Load Range C (about 1850 pounds per tire when inflated to the max pressure of 50 psi). If you wanted increased load capacity, you had to go to a 15-inch tire in order to get to Load Range D (about 2250 pounds at max pressure 65 psi). That is no longer true. If you look around, you can find 14-inch tires in Load Range D, so the upgrade is simple - just buy new 14-inch Load Range D tires, install them on the old 14-inch wheels, and you are good to go. (Caveat - make sure the old wheels are rated to hold 65 psi.)

So if you do your homework, the question of 14-inch vs 15-inch is no longer a question of load capacity.

If you change from a 14-inch tire to a 15-inch tire, it will give you a small increase in road clearance - about 1/2 inch. Not much, but you have to decide if it is important to you.

As for the fit of a 15-inch tire, TMs seem to have plenty of clearance behind and ahead of the tire. They also have enough clearance to the left and right of the tire. The remaining question is whether there is enough clearance above the tire - you don't want the tire to rub on the plastic wheel well liner above it. Dexter Axle, the supplier of TM axles, says that there should be 3 inches of clearance above the tire when the TM is loaded for travel. Since 2 inches appears to be more than adequate, I asked Dexter why they suggest 3 inches. They were unable to explain it, so several of us (including me) run with a bit over 2 inches of clearance without problem.

If you want to move to 15-inch tires, and you have less than 3 inches of clearance, and you are nervous about that, then the easiest solution is to install a lift kit. In addition to increasing tire clearance, a 2-inch lift kit will increase road clearance by 2 inches, which is a worthwhile amount if you intend to go rough-road or off-road at all. Some folks worry about raising the center of gravity of the trailer, but I don't think that an extra inch-and-a-half has any noticeable effect. However, remember that since it lifts the TM body, a lift kit reduces the clearance under your garage door.

Everything is a trade-off, isn't it? But my guess (you should confirm it) is that a 2008 has plenty of above-tire clearance. If you want to move to 15-inch tires, you can do so without installing a lift, and without affecting your garage door clearance.

Bill

I can't seem to find the answer in the existing posts.
This thread belongs in the Tires area of the forum, and I will move it there in a day or two. But that explains why you couldn't find the answers - since you are not a Site Sponsor, you can't see that part of the forum.
 
...(Caveat - make sure the old wheels are rated to hold 65 psi.)....

I had a lot of trouble finding rims rated for the higher loads. A lot of rims don't have a pressure limit stated, but are rated for load. My tire guy did make sure I had truck stems.

My original 14" rims were rated at 1850lbs only, so even if I upgraded to Load D 14" tires, I'd still have to upgrade the rims.
 
Thanks Keith,

Did your 2720SL have the 14" or 15" wheels originally?

Anyway, it looks as if Meteor can go ahead and upgrade to 15" wheels right away.

Larry, our TM came with 14" wheels and I upgraded to 15" without a problem (because of the increased angle on the axle).

I see Bill has also responded with lots of good info...

Keith
 
I upgraded to load Range "D", but stayed with 14" tires to avoid the slightly heavier unstrung weight of the 15" wheel tire combo. I bought the tires and wheels together from e-trailer and had a metal valve stem installed and balanced at my local tire shop.

I've had good luck on my previous camper going this route. You also can't go wrong with the 15" combo as long as you use load Range "D" tires.

Paul
 
Bolt pattern? Tire brands?

Thanks to all who replied, you've given me lots of good info. Now I just need to determine which way to go for availability at my tire shops vs. cost, etc. I'll definitely be going to a Load Range D, whether it's in 14" or 15"

Can anyone provide the bolt pattern for the TMs, or did that change over time? If it's not a constant, how do I measure it on mine? (Mine's in storage, but I could measure it if I knew what to do.) I think I need this for the new rims I'll need, correct?

Also, any advice on brands to look for or to avoid? I've seen Trailer King (which I've never heard of) and Goodyear (which I'm familiar with for car tires). Lots of others too, of course.

Thanks again for all your help!
Meteor
 
The bolt pattern is called "5 on 4 1/2". This means that there are 5 bolts, and they are located on a 4 1/2-inch circle. There are a couple ways to measure the size of the circle, but since there is no other size near it, precision isn't necessary.

You would do well to confirm this on your 2720 TM, as at least one exception has popped up.

Bill
 
sorry for resurrecting this old thread but I did purchase a higher load rated tire trailer king 65 psi. was wondering if I can use this tire on my old rims? how can I find the load rating of the rims that I have? There is nothing stamped on the rim for me to tell. it is the old 14" rims. thanks.
 
What is the size of the Trailer King tires? If they are 14-inch tires, they will fit on the old rims. If they are 15-inch tires, they will not.

As for the rims, their psi rating or load rating is often stamped on the inside of the rim, where you can't see it until you take the tire off the rim. If you remove the tire, and there is no info inside, then I would hesitate to use them at 65 psi. They were supplied for use with the original 14 inch Load Range C tires, which were limited to 50 psi. Were they original to your TM? If so, what year is your TM?

Bill
 
Thanks Bill these new tires are 14". Took the tires off the TM and took pics of the text stamped on the back. The two white rims are new rims and not original. The silver is the original and clearly states 1870 lbs load. Do you know what the white ones are from what the text states on the back?
 

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There is one more stamp on the outside of the rims edge. Hard to make out the numbers but this is the best picture I can take. Could this be a load rating?.
 

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I personally don't think the load rating of the rims matter, in the sense that you do not need a rim with a higher rating if you move to a larger rim. You're not changing the weight of the load -- it's the same trailer. So if the old rims had a weight rating of 1870 lbs, the load rating of the new ones on which the heavier tires are mounted doesn't have to be any higher.

WHAT DOES MATTER, however, is that the new rims are rated to handle higher air pressure. In trailer tires, that typically comes with larger rims, since higher PSI is what gets the higher load rating, but it makes sense to verify.

In my load range E tires, I run at 65 psi cold, which has proven to be a good balance between load support (e.g. no blow outs) and a relatively smooth ride in the camper.

Dave
 
Thanks shrimp burrito... I tend to agree with you on the load rating vs PSI rating. Since I purchased a new 65 psi tire I wanted to make sure that the old rims can handle the PSI rating of the new tires. However can't seem to see any PSI rating anywhere on the rim to know for sure.

Oh and BTW I did a quick search and amazon does sell rims rated at 65 PSI with the same lugs specs and size I need. I just didn't want to pick up new rims unless I absolutely needed them. But I am unsure what these are?
 
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I suspect that PSI ratings correlate to weight ratings, so my GUESS is that for any wheel rated for 1870 lbs, they will all have a specific pressure rating. If you want more than that, you need more weight capacity.

But that may not be universal, I don't know. See if you can find pressure ratings for a bunch of 1870 lb rated wheels -- if they're all the same, that might be your answer.

But if I were you, I'd get 15" wheels and tires. That resolves the issue, and also gives you a far greater safety margin. Blowouts are expensive (far more than a cost of rims and wheels), always happen at the least convenient time and place, are a major safety hazard, and are sure to spoil your trip.

Dave
 

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